dosent want to start when cold. help?

tsoccer3299

Member
Mar 21, 2004
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Tacoma
Ok so a few months ago I installed longtubes, ever since then after the car has sat overnight it takes a little longer to start, probably dosent even have anything to do with LT's. Then in just the last 2 weeks its gotten a lot worse. if its cold it acts as if it will never start. I used to pump the gas once or twice but it was hard to tell if that made a difference. Lately when its cold too once it does start it idles really low and has actually died once or twice. When starting it just keeps turning over but just will not fire right up. Once it warms up there are no problems at all with starting it back up and it seems to run fine. Anybody have any ideas? maybe a clogged fuel filter? bad fuel pump? i really have no idea and am at college so cant really work on it till i (hopefully) am able to drive it home in a week. Thanks
 
Lazy fuelpump.....Try this....turn the key to the on position only, 3 times, this will let it build pressure...hit it on the 4th time....if it lights right off....there's lies your problem....its a fairly common issue, it's not holding pressure..
Its not the pump but the pressure regulator within it thats failing....mine did that for years...more aggravating than anything else....use the 3 turn trick for a bit..til you get tired off that... :D
I put a new pump in 2 yrs ago and i can sense it going South again... :nonono:
 
tsoccer3299,

It’s probably a bad ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor.

The ECT sensor performs the same function as a choke on an engine with a carburetor (it richens the A/F ratio on a cold engine so it can start and run until warmed up).

It’s located in one of the metal coolant lines that runs over the top of the engine near the distributor. It just screws in.
 
ok well i tried turning the key on three times before starting and that seemed to help some, still takes longer than it should. I'll look more into the IAC and ECT when i start looking into it tomorrow
 
yeah....and while you are there, replace your IAT sensor too. It might be a possibility too, as the air coming into the motor is cooler when the engine bay is cold.

When was the last time you cleaned you MAF??? If you haven't, do so. It will help if it's even slightly dirty.
Scott
 
I would think your pumps ok...usually the prime trick makes it light right off....

As MLC Stang mentioned I'm gonna swap mine...its the OEM part with 74k on it and mines not lighting off as quick as it used to... it's a tad fussy and sounds like its loading up at the initial start in the morning...

as mentioned, MAF and IAT is an easy one to tackle to clean em up....Happy hunting.... :D
 
ok so first i took the IAC and MAF off. Now the MAF has those torx security bits on it so i cant take the piece i think i need off until i get that bit. I dont want to stick a q-tip down in there and end up breaking something. now on to the IAC. i have it off but now what do i do spray something in the two holes or what? heres a pic, looks kinda dirty
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On the IAC....shoot it up with some WD40 all inside...let it soak a bit and use Q-Tips to clean out that crud....do it a few times over to get all that crud out...you should be able to move the plunger up and down once it cleaned up some..

Any parts store should have the Torx for the MAF..Its called a tamper-proof Torx as it has a hole in the middle...I use CRC electrical cleaner on the sensor..you can wipe it gently with a QTip douched in the cleaner....clean the MAF screen while your there,,,it can get pretty stank as well as the entire inside of the MAF.....
 
ok well i cleaned the IAC up some. then walked down to autozone and just my luck the only bit they didnt have was that t-20 torx that i need. Oh well i'll put the IAC back on tomorrow without cleanign the MAF tomorrow and see if theres a difference. I'll have to find that torx soon though. Also hoping maybe resetting the computer might help.

Now on the IAT sensor i read i need to drain a little bit of the coolant before i take it off? guess i might have to wait on that then.

thanks again for the help
 
Go to Napa...The have a Ford TFI tool for like 6.00 or so...

I think you mean the ECT sensor...thats coolant related...The IAT sensor is in your TB inlet tube, just upwind of the MAF sensor....you can see it inside the rubber tube....Shoot that to...It prolly has some crud on it also..
 
ok yeah i meant to say the ECT sensor. MLC seemed to think that could be the cause. But anyways yeah i also forgot to say i already cleaned that IAT sensor in the tube. thanks, let you guys know more tomorrow.....
 
tsoccer3299 said:
ok yeah i meant to say the ECT sensor. MLC seemed to think that could be the cause. But anyways yeah i also forgot to say i already cleaned that IAT sensor in the tube. thanks, let you guys know more tomorrow.....

I don't think you need to drain the coolant to swap the ECT. I am almost positive you don't actually. And that is your likely problem.

Be wary of cleaning your IAC valve. I did and I broke it..lol.

Yeah, that t-20 security torx should be stocked by autozone. That sucks. Time to find it somewhere else. Once you do, yank the maf sensor, carefully clean it with alcohol and q-tips until it's clean, then reinstall.

But I still think it's your ECT.
Scott
 
ok well hooked everything back up. cleaned up the IAC, IAT, and MAF and also found 2 very small vacuum leaks from when my brother "supposedly" capped the two lines when i took out my smog stuff. So fixed all of that. Also I unplugged everything from the battery overnight.

Now I started it up, took a minute then fired up and idled very low and almost died. I shut it off, tried starting it again and it took a minute and fired up rough then smoothed out and idled for a few minutes at around 600rpms. Isnt this sort of low for when its cold? Took it for a short drive and at a stop sign or light the car would go down and almost die then come back up to regular idle. I had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldnt die. Stopped the car for a few minutes and then took a second to start again. When it got hot though as usual it seemed to run fine. I hopping when the engine cools I should be able start it right up. I guess I'll find out.

Will those sensors just go out? How can I tell if one has gone bad? When I go home next week I'll take the ECT out. Can I clean it or do I just buy a new one?
Thanks a lot you guys, it actually feels like I might be getting somewhere lol...
 
The ECT and IAT use the same thermistor (not the same physical thermistor, but the same rating). They can be tested at various temps and compared to the values chart.

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
The ECT and IAT use the same thermistor (not the same physical thermistor, but the same rating). They can be tested at various temps and compared to the values chart.

Good luck.

Yeah, but unfortunately I don't have those tables. I have one for the IAT sensor, but not the ECT.

Unfortunately, I would just replace the ECT and see what happens.
Scott
 
Where is the ECT sensor? I am having a hard time starting the car, and I believe this is why because also when the car is hot it runs liek complete **** (hesitation), so these 2 problems can be related I guess since the ECT measures air temp.
 
Synned said:
Where is the ECT sensor? I am having a hard time starting the car, and I believe this is why because also when the car is hot it runs liek complete **** (hesitation), so these 2 problems can be related I guess since the ECT measures air temp.
Synned,

That's not quite right. ECT measures engine coolant temperature. ACT measures air temperature coming into the intake.

Check the link to the PDF file in my post above. Shows location of both sensors.