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Double Din Swap - Radio problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stus99GT
  • Start date Start date Jun 24, 2011

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 24, 2011
#1
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #1
Any help would be appreciated!

I just completed the double din swap on my 96, using the radio and parts from a 2004 Mustang. I've got everything hooked up, power and sound to and from the radio. The problem that I'm having is that the radio won't turn off. If I turn off the car, the radio stays on and won't power off. Obviously, this will drain my battery pretty quickly. I'm guessing that I hooked up something with the power wires wrong.

Thanks for the help!
 
F

floridaboy

Member
May 16, 2011
30
0
6
Valdosta, GA
Jun 24, 2011
#2
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #2
There is a power wire and an "on" wire for lack of a better term. Look at your HU wrong and hook up the turn on wire to a switched source
 

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 24, 2011
#3
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #3
floridaboy said:
There is a power wire and an "on" wire for lack of a better term. Look at your HU wrong and hook up the turn on wire to a switched source
Click to expand...

Thanks. Now I just need to figure out which are the two power wires coming from the car.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jun 24, 2011
#4
  • Jun 24, 2011
  • #4
On the 96 MY, the Y/BK is switched. The LG/V is "hot at all times".

The 2004 is going to have two power wires as well. I suspect that they are swapped.

It will be necessary to connect both wires otherwise the radio will forget off of the pre-sets.
 

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 25, 2011
#5
  • Jun 25, 2011
  • #5
wmburns said:
On the 96 MY, the Y/BK is switched. The LG/V is "hot at all times".

The 2004 is going to have two power wires as well. I suspect that they are swapped.

It will be necessary to connect both wires otherwise the radio will forget off of the pre-sets.
Click to expand...


Well, I tried this morning and had no luck. I can get power to the radio, but the radio won't turn off.

Here are the power wires I'm working with. There are two yellow/black wires. One is coming from under the left side of the dash and the other is coming from a wiring harness on the right side. The left wire is hot, the right is not. The other hot wire is a Green/yellow wire. I've tried a ton of combos and nothing is working.

The yellow/black wires ran in and out of the original amp (which I no longer need since the new radio has it's own internal amp).
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jun 25, 2011
#6
  • Jun 25, 2011
  • #6
Ok.. reviewed wiring diagrams. Some of the wire colors are difficult to read. I now think the wire colors are:
Hot in acc/run: Y/BK. (Yellow with black tracer)
Hot at all times: LG/Y (Light Green with yellow tracer).

Confirm that fuse I/P 8 and 11 fuses are good. Stop trying things. Get a Volt-Ohm meter and TEST. When you have the correct Y/BK wire, then it should be an easy to confirm the wire is off when the ignition is off.

The server will not let me upload ".TIF" diagrams.

Before we go any futher, let's confirm that we have the correct power wires.
 

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 25, 2011
#7
  • Jun 25, 2011
  • #7
wmburns said:
Ok.. reviewed wiring diagrams. Some of the wire colors are difficult to read. I now think the wire colors are:
Hot in acc/run: Y/BK. (Yellow with black tracer)
Hot at all times: LG/Y (Light Green with yellow tracer).

Confirm that fuse I/P 8 and 11 fuses are good. Stop trying things. Get a Volt-Ohm meter and TEST. When you have the correct Y/BK wire, then it should be an easy to confirm the wire is off when the ignition is off.

The server will not let me upload ".TIF" diagrams.

Before we go any futher, let's confirm that we have the correct power wires.
Click to expand...


I can confirm that I have both of the power wires that you have described above. I did test both of them with a meter earlier and both wires were hot (with the ignition off). Both the 8 and 11 fuses are good...I've had to pull the 11 fuse temporarily so that the radio will turn off.

I'm guessing the problem is coming from the yellow/black wire being split. With usage of the amp, the yellow/blk wire went into the amp and came out into a harness. As I stated above, right now I'm left with two yellow/black wires. One come out of the left (right at the code reader port) and that one is hot (always). The other goes into a harness with the other power wires for the radio and does not have any current.

The old radio worked perfectly, so I know it has something to do with the radio power wiring.

Thanks again for the help. I'm quite confused.
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
5,892
514
204
Houston Texas
Jun 25, 2011
#8
  • Jun 25, 2011
  • #8
We need to confirm that you have the correct wires.

I/P fuse 8:hot at all times:LG/Y
I/P fuse 11:switched:Y/BK
engine compartment fuse audio: hot at all times: SOLID YELLOW (super sound)

Confirm which sound system was in the car originally.

The wiring diagrams indicate that the hot LG/Y wire is SPLIT for the radio and an additional feed going to the CD player.

I have got to believe that you have crossed the wires and are now back feeding I/P circuit 11. Remove fuse 11 and test for +12 volts on both sides with the key off. Repeat with the key on. Next repeat with the new radio disconnected.

What we are trying to do is to confirm that the input side of the fuse is indeed switched as the wiring diagrams indicate. Once we know which side if the fuse is input and which is load, we can test to see if there really is a back feed going on.
 

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 25, 2011
#9
  • Jun 25, 2011
  • #9
wmburns said:
We need to confirm that you have the correct wires.

I/P fuse 8:hot at all times:LG/Y
I/P fuse 11:switched:Y/BK
engine compartment fuse audio: hot at all times: SOLID YELLOW (super sound)

Confirm which sound system was in the car originally.

The wiring diagrams indicate that the hot LG/Y wire is SPLIT for the radio and an additional feed going to the CD player.

I have got to believe that you have crossed the wires and are now back feeding I/P circuit 11. Remove fuse 11 and test for +12 volts on both sides with the key off. Repeat with the key on. Next repeat with the new radio disconnected.

What we are trying to do is to confirm that the input side of the fuse is indeed switched as the wiring diagrams indicate. Once we know which side if the fuse is input and which is load, we can test to see if there really is a back feed going on.
Click to expand...

I'll try this tomorrow and let you know. Thanks.
 

Stus99GT

Member
Nov 14, 2003
75
0
6
VA
Jun 26, 2011
#10
  • Jun 26, 2011
  • #10
wmburns said:
We need to confirm that you have the correct wires.

I/P fuse 8:hot at all times:LG/Y
I/P fuse 11:switched:Y/BK
engine compartment fuse audio: hot at all times: SOLID YELLOW (super sound)

Confirm which sound system was in the car originally.

The wiring diagrams indicate that the hot LG/Y wire is SPLIT for the radio and an additional feed going to the CD player.

I have got to believe that you have crossed the wires and are now back feeding I/P circuit 11. Remove fuse 11 and test for +12 volts on both sides with the key off. Repeat with the key on. Next repeat with the new radio disconnected.

What we are trying to do is to confirm that the input side of the fuse is indeed switched as the wiring diagrams indicate. Once we know which side if the fuse is input and which is load, we can test to see if there really is a back feed going on.
Click to expand...

I was able to get it fixed. The fuse for number 8 had blown, which is why I wasn't getting any power to the yellow/blk wire. I had checked the number 11 fuse and forgot to check the number 8 fuse. Thanks again for the help!! My double din swap is complete!!!!!!
 
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