Drilled Throttle Body

Probe the center wire and top wire of the TPS harness with a digital voltmeter and check the voltage with the Key On Engine Off. You adjust it by loosening the screws and twisting the whole sensor clockwise or counterclockwise, whichever way you need to decrease or increase the voltage. The slack in the mounting holes alone allows you to change the TPS voltage.

This whole procedure is called "resetting the idle" and it is very common b/c most Mustangs stall after they are modified. The problem is the computer does not understand the new airflow at idle and therefore it can't control the IAC properly. My car died all the time when I let my foot off the throttle and all I had modified was the exhaust, TB, and intake. After the reset, however, it has never died since. It is an amazing fix.
 
HairyCanary said:
You do not need to change TPS voltage on a 94/95. The EEC will baseline it when you turn the key to start the car. If it's fubar enough that the EEC cannot baseline it, you'll get a MIL.

ok maybe I don't NEED to change the voltage, but it's free as opposed to buying whatever a MIL is.

Which is the better way to go though? I've got all the mechanical/electrical skill I need to do this, I just want to know the sure-fire way to fix this.
 
It never fails to amaze me how many times I read this. Listen, if you want to fix your problem get the idle air control spacer from your Ford dealer. This thing works! I tried and tried without it to achieve idle with the E-cam, I couldnt. As soon as I put this thing on all the problems disappeared. It gives directions on setting your throttle plate back to factory specs and explains how to adjust it when installed. The only thing I had to do was turn the factory idle air control set screw (under the cap) in. I actually was around 1250 RPM at idle until I turned this in a few turns. Now I idle at 1000 RPM with my nice chompy lope sound, and in DRIVE I am right around 750. You cant go wrong for less than $20.00