Drilling hole in tie rod

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chemeng

New Member

Feb 21, 2004

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Louisville, KY

Sep 17, 2006

#1

• Sep 17, 2006

• #1

Putting the finishing touches on the TCP manual rack install. To clear the rack and pinion bellows I had to grind down the inner tie rod ends and ended up grinding off the section that has the hole for the cotter pin. The kit included two nuts with nylon bushings that replace the castle nut, but I don't trust that setup.

So far I've broken two titanium 1/8" bits and one HSS bit trying to drill through the tie rod end. I am using lots of cutting oil but having no luck.
Any suggestions? Should I go to a machine shop and see if they can do anything?

This is the last thing to do before I take it to the alignment shop. Any help appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Mike

 

Psydwaze

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Oct 10, 2001

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Sacramento, CA

Sep 17, 2006

#2

• Sep 17, 2006

• #2

The nyloc nuts are packaged with the tie rods from the manufacturer. If you are looking to change the nut I would suggest using an all metal locknut that has one end crimped to oval or triangulate the thread bore. Not sure of the thread pitch off the top of my head.

 

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chemeng

New Member

Feb 21, 2004

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Louisville, KY

Sep 18, 2006

#3

• Sep 18, 2006

• #3

So the Nylocs are safe? I have the castle nuts that came with the tie rods, the TCP kit included two nylocs to replace the castle nuts if you had to trim the tie rods. I had to trim and lost the cotter pin hole. Would like to resuse the castle nut but cannot drill through the tie rod.

 

dennis112

15 Year Member

May 15, 2005

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Amish Wonderland of Central PA.

Sep 18, 2006

#4

• Sep 18, 2006

• #4

I know it is down and dirty, but if you really wanted a hole for a cotter key, you could try using a small dremel to burn/grind one out. Just be cautious of the metal dust as it could lead to premature failure of the tie rod.

 

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bnickel

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Aug 21, 2002

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lubbock, texas

Sep 18, 2006

#5

• Sep 18, 2006

• #5

i would not recommend using the all metal locknut that has one end crimped to oval or triangulate the thread bore. the reason is that eventually the tie rod will wear and you'll never be able to remove these kinds of lock nuts because the tie rod stud will just spin in the housing. NOT good. i'd either try to keep drilling or use the nylock nuts.

 

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180 Out

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Jul 23, 2005

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Sep 18, 2006

#6

• Sep 18, 2006

• #6

A double nut will be perfectly safe. Torque one flat nut to spec, then torque another flat nut on top of it.

FYI, the Baer bump steer correction kit, which replaces the outer tie rod end, uses no castle nut/cotter pin setup. It uses only a press fit stud through the spindle, and a nyloc nut. The instructions say nothing about double-nutting, but at $0.10/nut, it would be silly not to.

 

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chemeng

New Member

Feb 21, 2004

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Louisville, KY

Sep 18, 2006

#7

• Sep 18, 2006

• #7

Wish I could double nut, had to cut the tie rod bolt down so it wouldn't drag across the rack and pinion bellows. Can only get one nut on it. I bought a new drill bit today that is for metal only, hopefully it will bite through the tie rod so the cotter pin can get through. Just don't trust nylocs on a tie rod.
Thanks everyone, Mike

 

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chromedog

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Jan 13, 2006

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worlds center for speed

Sep 18, 2006

#8

• Sep 18, 2006

• #8

ive had the wifes taurus front end apart numerous times, (stinkin' fwd!) not a cotter pin to be found, all nylocks...

 

brianj5600

Active Member

Sep 19, 2003

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Middle TN

Sep 18, 2006

#9

• Sep 18, 2006

• #9

What about safety wire?

 

Psydwaze

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Oct 10, 2001

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Sacramento, CA

Sep 19, 2006

#10

• Sep 19, 2006

• #10

We do package a set of nyloc nuts with the earlier tie rods for situations such as yours. The later (1970) tie rods we purchase have only a nyloc nut with no cotter pin hole through the stud.

bnickle,
Good call on the stud possibly spinning during removal. I've seen two types of all metal locknuts. One applies the crimp along the tapered end so the clamping force is not nearly as strong as the standard hex style nut with two flat ends. If the tie rod stud does spin the centerlink can be detached from the rack and the nut removed with an impact gun.

 

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66Runt

Member

Jun 11, 2005

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Sep 19, 2006

#11

• Sep 19, 2006

• #11

Just tighten the nut slowly

The key with a nyloc is to not get the nylon insert hot. Which means turn the nut by hand instead of using a wratchet or air tools. Once you heat them up the threads form in the nylon and they are no longer a "locking nut".

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

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Sep 20, 2006

#12

• Sep 20, 2006

• #12

bnickel said:

i would not recommend using the all metal locknut that has one end crimped to oval or triangulate the thread bore. the reason is that eventually the tie rod will wear and you'll never be able to remove these kinds of lock nuts because the tie rod stud will just spin in the housing. NOT good. i'd either try to keep drilling or use the nylock nuts.

Click to expand...

Had this problem on a friends H*nda. It was on the upper control arm stud. An impact was able to take it off but I see your point, especially at hard angles.

 

DukeGnarley

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Apr 2, 2003

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Auburn/Ellensburg, Wa

Sep 20, 2006

#13

• Sep 20, 2006

• #13

Rusty67 said:

Had this problem on a friends H*nda. It was on the upper control arm stud. An impact was able to take it off but I see your point, especially at hard angles.

Click to expand...

That was some smooth swear filter avoidance right there.

 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter

Dec 3, 2002

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Sep 20, 2006

#14

• Sep 20, 2006

• #14

SSSHHHHHH don't tell anyone I work on a lot of imports, its a secret.....