Driveshaft bolt removal

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

MUSTANGJOE said:
Oh yeah! When you reinstall those bolts make sure you really tighten them ..try to go to a shop and let them use there air tools..because I retightened mine by hand and a week later my car started to vibrate, so I went to the shop and my diff was about to come right off! the bolts fell off and it was running on 1 bolt which was about to come off too! I just could imagine the damage that would of caused!..Anyways good luck!

That's because you NEED to use thread locker on the bolts!

jerry beach · Sep 8, 2004

Leg press is good, thats how I got mine off, not torch needed and it didnt take long at all. I put blue loc-tite on them and tightened the crap out of them with my foot again. They came loose again. The next time, I put red loc-tite on them ( stud and bearing formula). They have been staying tight since then. When they start to come loose, you will hear and feel a slight clunk under the car when you start to let the clutch out sometimes. They are the first thing to check when you hear a clunk in the drive train.

Ray III · Sep 8, 2004

Red or blue loctite?

If the stuff is RED then the torching makes sense because that is how red loctite is supposed to be released.

MUSTANGJOE · Sep 8, 2004

cevtv said:
That's because you NEED to use thread locker on the bolts!

Well that makes more sence!

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

Ray III said:
Red or blue loctite?

If the stuff is RED then the torching makes sense because that is how red loctite is supposed to be released.

From the factory it is the same as the red.

Gearbanger 101 · Sep 8, 2004

Huh....you guys do a lot of work for nothing. All it too was a good 12-point wrench and a quick whack with the hammer to get mine loose. No stress required.

Tightend them up the same way. Good to go.

5.0 Nostalgia · Sep 8, 2004

Guys, I got the bolts loose. And the winner is...Daniel's method of using the jack. Couldn't get much easier than that. Just a little PB, wait 5 minutes, put the wrench on, and jack it up.

5.0 Nostalgia · Sep 8, 2004

Now before I make a mess, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I take it out? When I pulled the trans on my old GT, I don't remember if I drained the fluid first or after. Right now the car I am working on has a T5. The other car was a AOD and I just dropped the pan. How do I drain the fluid on a T5?

Daggar · Sep 8, 2004

Nah... plastic bag and a couple of rubber bands is good enough for removal and replacement.

Gearbanger 101 · Sep 8, 2004

Keep-er-level.

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

Yeah...it'll pour out of the speedo gear hole, too.

5spd GT · Sep 8, 2004

Gearbanger 101 said:
Huh....you guys do a lot of work for nothing. All it too was a good 12-point wrench and a quick whack with the hammer to get mine loose. No stress required.

Tightend them up the same way. Good to go.

Not all bolts are tightened equally...do to age, previous work, etc...

My bolts snapped a socket in two pieces...it twisted it and shot off from an impact gun...

5spd GT · Sep 8, 2004

5.0 Nostalgia said:
Now before I make a mess, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I take it out? When I pulled the trans on my old GT, I don't remember if I drained the fluid first or after. Right now the car I am working on has a T5. The other car was a AOD and I just dropped the pan. How do I drain the fluid on a T5?

They make a tailshaft plug that goes into the end of the trans that will plug it up when you take out the driveshaft...it is like $3 bucks...but the rubber band and ziploc bag trick would be just fine...

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

5spd GT said:
Not all bolts are tightened equally...do to age, previous work, etc...

My bolts snapped a socket in two pieces...it twisted it and shot off from an impact gun...

This is why you should heat it first........it would suck to twist the head off of a bolt, and have to try to get the rest of the bolt out of the pinion flange.

5spd GT · Sep 8, 2004

cevtv said:
This is why you should heat it first........it would suck to twist the head off of a bolt, and have to try to get the rest of the bolt out of the pinion flange.

Ahh...it wouldn't be to big of a deal...we brought out the torch after that...no problem at all...either way...

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

Gearbanger 101 said:
Personally I don't know how comfortable I would be superheating the area. It might be ok for your average bolt of car, but I wouldn't want to risk taking the temperament out of the bolts or flange when real horsepower and torque is applied. Might find yourself at the starting line with a spinning drive shaft and no forward momentum. Or worse yet have it come off half track and pole vault your way to the finish line.....on your roof.

Who said anything about "superheating"?????? Just heat it enough to loosen the loctite - only a few seconds. If that changes the temper of the bolt, the bolt was screwed to begin with. Have you ever read the Red Loctite directions??? They say "localized heating and hand tools are required to seperate parts".

You guys are thinking WAY too much about this........

Gearbanger 101 · Sep 8, 2004

Personally I don't know how comfortable I would be superheating the area. It might be ok for your average bolt of car, but I wouldn't want to risk taking the temperament out of the bolts or flange when real horsepower and torque is applied. Might find yourself at the starting line with a spinning drive shaft and no forward momentum. Or worse yet have it come off half track and pole vault your way to the finish line.....on your roof.

cevtv · Sep 8, 2004

Whoa....how did my reply get in before the post I replied too???

bgjohnson · Sep 8, 2004

yeah those things are a bitch , i just used the double wrench and my "breaking loose" arm, haha

5.0 Nostalgia · Sep 8, 2004

I thought about the heat causing a problem too. But then again, I thought the jack would be putting a lot of stress on the rear end. Then I thought I am over analyzing the problem and my transmission is not going to get fixed if I keep messing around with something this minor.

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