Driveshaft bolt removal

MUSTANGJOE said:
Oh yeah! When you reinstall those bolts make sure you really tighten them ..try to go to a shop and let them use there air tools..because I retightened mine by hand and a week later my car started to vibrate, so I went to the shop and my diff was about to come right off! the bolts fell off and it was running on 1 bolt which was about to come off too! I just could imagine the damage that would of caused!..Anyways good luck! :)



That's because you NEED to use thread locker on the bolts! :bang:
 
Leg press is good, thats how I got mine off, not torch needed and it didnt take long at all. I put blue loc-tite on them and tightened the crap out of them with my foot again. They came loose again. The next time, I put red loc-tite on them ( stud and bearing formula). They have been staying tight since then. When they start to come loose, you will hear and feel a slight clunk under the car when you start to let the clutch out sometimes. They are the first thing to check when you hear a clunk in the drive train.
 
Guys, I got the bolts loose. And the winner is...Daniel's method of using the jack. Couldn't get much easier than that. Just a little PB, wait 5 minutes, put the wrench on, and jack it up.
 
Now before I make a mess, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I take it out? When I pulled the trans on my old GT, I don't remember if I drained the fluid first or after. Right now the car I am working on has a T5. The other car was a AOD and I just dropped the pan. How do I drain the fluid on a T5?
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
Huh....you guys do a lot of work for nothing. All it too was a good 12-point wrench and a quick whack with the hammer to get mine loose. No stress required. :shrug:

Tightend them up the same way. Good to go.

Not all bolts are tightened equally...do to age, previous work, etc...

My bolts snapped a socket in two pieces...it twisted it and shot off from an impact gun...
 
5.0 Nostalgia said:
Now before I make a mess, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I take it out? When I pulled the trans on my old GT, I don't remember if I drained the fluid first or after. Right now the car I am working on has a T5. The other car was a AOD and I just dropped the pan. How do I drain the fluid on a T5?

They make a tailshaft plug that goes into the end of the trans that will plug it up when you take out the driveshaft...it is like $3 bucks...but the rubber band and ziploc bag trick would be just fine...
 
5spd GT said:
Not all bolts are tightened equally...do to age, previous work, etc...

My bolts snapped a socket in two pieces...it twisted it and shot off from an impact gun...



This is why you should heat it first........it would suck to twist the head off of a bolt, and have to try to get the rest of the bolt out of the pinion flange. :notnice:
 
cevtv said:
This is why you should heat it first........it would suck to twist the head off of a bolt, and have to try to get the rest of the bolt out of the pinion flange. :notnice:

Ahh...it wouldn't be to big of a deal...we brought out the torch after that...no problem at all...either way...
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
Personally I don't know how comfortable I would be superheating the area. It might be ok for your average bolt of car, but I wouldn't want to risk taking the temperament out of the bolts or flange when real horsepower and torque is applied. Might find yourself at the starting line with a spinning drive shaft and no forward momentum. Or worse yet have it come off half track and pole vault your way to the finish line.....on your roof. :bang:


:bs: Who said anything about "superheating"?????? Just heat it enough to loosen the loctite - only a few seconds. If that changes the temper of the bolt, the bolt was screwed to begin with. :bang: Have you ever read the Red Loctite directions??? They say "localized heating and hand tools are required to seperate parts".

You guys are thinking WAY too much about this........
 
Personally I don't know how comfortable I would be superheating the area. It might be ok for your average bolt of car, but I wouldn't want to risk taking the temperament out of the bolts or flange when real horsepower and torque is applied. Might find yourself at the starting line with a spinning drive shaft and no forward momentum. Or worse yet have it come off half track and pole vault your way to the finish line.....on your roof. :bang:
 
I thought about the heat causing a problem too. But then again, I thought the jack would be putting a lot of stress on the rear end. Then I thought I am over analyzing the problem and my transmission is not going to get fixed if I keep messing around with something this minor.