Driveshaft bolt removal

When you heat a part red hot and then let it cool that tempers it. It is probably not as good a tempered bolt from a manufacturer, but it will be PLENTY hard.

Heating a part up, then letting it cool SLOWLY, by very gradually removing heat, is what anneals it by giving the molecules time to rearrange into a weaker state.

Nothing wrong with replacing heated bolts if you want to be safe. But from my experience, it is generally not necessary.

But is your car jacked up on jacks or a lift? that makes a difference!

From my 79 and 82 car experience, I would suggest getting a 12 mm, 12 point socket. I use this with an extension, and usually put an adapter on so I can use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar. If you had a 1/2 drive,, 12 mm, 12 point socket, you could eliminate the adapter. This will allow a socket on the bolts in the lower position.

I had the socket for some other reason, and it just became the tool for this job when I got these cars.
The breaker bar does accommodate extension with a piece of pipe if you need it. Put the handle and pipe in the horizontal position and put a jack under one end if need to apply overwhelming force.

Most of the time, after I have done it once, for a couple years they will come off with a plain 12 point box wrench.

(appologies if I remembered the wrong size)

Yes it is 12mm but if a Snap-On ratchet would not fit in there, what will?