Driveshaft bolt removal
- Thread starter 5.0 Nostalgia
- Start date
I don't know why my post warranted acevtv said:Who said anything about "superheating"?????? Just heat it enough to loosen the loctite - only a few seconds. If that changes the temper of the bolt, the bolt was screwed to begin with.
Have you ever read the Red Loctite directions??? They say "localized heating and hand tools are required to seperate parts".
You guys are thinking WAY too much about this........
, but I wasn't just referring to removal of a bolt covered in loc-tite. It was a general statement that referred to a common practice when getting rusted and ceased bolts out, is to superheat them with a torch. While it’s successful 99% of the time, it does tend to take the temper out of them and if you're not careful, the surface they’re mounted in/on. This makes them/the area potentially brittle and prone to breakage.....and I don't have a clue why the board is doing this tonight?
Ray III
New Member
When you heat a part red hot and then let it cool that tempers it. It is probably not as good a tempered bolt from a manufacturer, but it will be PLENTY hard.
Heating a part up, then letting it cool SLOWLY, by very gradually removing heat, is what anneals it by giving the molecules time to rearrange into a weaker state.
Nothing wrong with replacing heated bolts if you want to be safe. But from my experience, it is generally not necessary.
Heating a part up, then letting it cool SLOWLY, by very gradually removing heat, is what anneals it by giving the molecules time to rearrange into a weaker state.
Nothing wrong with replacing heated bolts if you want to be safe. But from my experience, it is generally not necessary.
- Apr 9, 2002
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rd
Founding Member
From my 79 and 82 car experience, I would suggest getting a 12 mm, 12 point socket. I use this with an extension, and usually put an adapter on so I can use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar. If you had a 1/2 drive,, 12 mm, 12 point socket, you could eliminate the adapter. This will allow a socket on the bolts in the lower position.
I had the socket for some other reason, and it just became the tool for this job when I got these cars.
The breaker bar does accommodate extension with a piece of pipe if you need it. Put the handle and pipe in the horizontal position and put a jack under one end if need to apply overwhelming force.
Most of the time, after I have done it once, for a couple years they will come off with a plain 12 point box wrench.
(appologies if I remembered the wrong size)
I had the socket for some other reason, and it just became the tool for this job when I got these cars.
The breaker bar does accommodate extension with a piece of pipe if you need it. Put the handle and pipe in the horizontal position and put a jack under one end if need to apply overwhelming force.
Most of the time, after I have done it once, for a couple years they will come off with a plain 12 point box wrench.
(appologies if I remembered the wrong size)
Ray III
New Member
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