driveshaft bolts
- Thread starter davins130
- Start date
AznStanger3v
Active Member
its a 12 point. well, ive been doing driveshafts on the modular cars lately so thats what they are on there. it kinda sounds like a sharp 6 point. i cant remember, its been long.
AznStanger3v
Active Member
To remove the driveshaft which is held in by 4 bolts in where you will need a 12 point 12 mm socket or wrench to fit over the bolts perfectly. The driveshaft bolts are commonly very stubborn to get off. If you can get a break-over bar on the bolts then you should be able to break them loose. I use the appropriate wrench and put a hollow bar over it and break them loose that way. It helps on the leverage. When you go to remove the bolts you will need to rotate the driveshaft to get an angle on the bolts. When you find the right angle put the car in gear (take your shifter and temporarily pop on the tranny and stick it in gear) and put on the e-brake to prevent the back tires from turning so you can break the bolts loose. Once you have removed all 4 bolts you are now ready to remove the driveshaft. When you pull the driveshaft out from it’s trans housing do not be surprised if transmission fluid comes out (normal). You can buy the driveshaft “plugs” that will be placed where the driveshaft was inputted or you can use a rubber band and ziploc baggy and rig it up to catch any of the fluid so you don’t lose to much...
Good Luck
12 point 12mm wrench/socket will be needed...
Good Luck
12 point 12mm wrench/socket will be needed...
KingDiamond
New Member
I high recommend using an impact wrench on those. I had to buy a 12-point 12MM socket from Sear's. Trying to get them off by hand was nearly impossible, they have red loctite on them too. Then my friend brought an impact wrench and compressor and they were all off in 2 minutes.
SWYZ721
Member
how similar in difficulty would you say they are to get off, when compared to stock header bolts?
I'm not sure how you would get an impact gun on them without the use of a swivel.
They are harder to get off (torque wise) than header bolts...I believe the driveshaft bolts are torqued to 90-100ft. lbs...or so...with loctite on them as well...
Just use a cheater bar and you shouldn't have to much trouble...
They are harder to get off (torque wise) than header bolts...I believe the driveshaft bolts are torqued to 90-100ft. lbs...or so...with loctite on them as well...
Just use a cheater bar and you shouldn't have to much trouble...
KingDiamond
New Member
if not mentioned, a little heat takes care of the threadlocker pretty well.
do reapply threadlock once done or they might back out on you. i do it like David does - no issues. i dont have the guts to use a gun on 12 point bolt heads.
do reapply threadlock once done or they might back out on you. i do it like David does - no issues. i dont have the guts to use a gun on 12 point bolt heads.
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
HISSIN50 said:if not mentioned, a little heat takes care of the threadlocker pretty well.
do reapply threadlock once done or they might back out on you. i do it like David does - no issues. i dont have the guts to use a gun on 12 point bolt heads.
Agreed.
I've never been able to get anything more than a box wrench on there and then used a bigger wrench as a cheater bar. With a little heat from a small propane torch they come off. You will occasionally hear stories about peopel snapping them off because they use nothing but a breaker bar or something else -- you don't want that happening!
I remember the first attempts (now I do recall using an impact - friend was anyways while I was messing with the exhaust removal for clutch swap) that we twisted a socket in half on the driveshaft bolts...lol. So we had to get the torch out
I know the aluminum driveshaft I have now won't let me get a socket in there anymore where the stock one did so it is a bit more of a headache
I know the aluminum driveshaft I have now won't let me get a socket in there anymore where the stock one did so it is a bit more of a headache
KingDiamond
New Member
Oh yeah and if the head of the bolt is a little twisted when you take them out then it's a good idea to get some new ones. I got 4 new ones for $8 at my local dealer.
Some bolts are more stubborn than others is all. I've always started with a 12 pt 12mm shortwell 3/8 drive socket and rachet. If that doesn't work, I'll go to a wrench unless I'm feeling lazy. If so, I use a 3/8 drive impact, impact socket and swivel. Makes quick work of any d/s bolt that way. Of course, if I'm doing a tranny swap or ring & pinion removal, the impact was already out.
Similar threads
