Driveshaft removal questions

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,157
17,848
224
Massachusetts
My car isn't at my house, so i need to make sure i bring the correct tools when i go work on it.

WHat sort of wrench is needed for the 4 d/s to rear end bolts? What size and how many points??


Also, how can i remove the yoke from the d/s to stuff back inside the trans to keep fluid in (trans is coming out too at later date) Snap ring pliers?


I'm not concerned with keeping the stock D/S as i have an Aluminum D/S waiting to put in later.
 
D/S bolts are probably lock tited on. So you will need a torch to heat them up to get them off.

Mine would not budge until I got them cherry red.

Once they were heated up they came out fairly easy with the double wrench leverage.
 
As stated earlier 12pt, 12mm wrench. No need for heat or a second wrench. I just use my foot and leg.

I know it sounds red...:rlaugh:..but it works very well. Even after I accidentaly used red loc-tite. :nonono: Just support you upper body by the jack stand or wheel, place the ball of your foot on the wrench and push in the proper direction (IIRC should push on wrench from passenger side) to loosen. I've used this method 10+ times with no problems.

Also, if the car is level and the tranny filled to the proper level, mine hasn't leaked more than a few drops after d/s removal.
 
When i changed mine out I jacked the rearend up pretty high and put jackstands under the rearend..I had no tranny fluid drip out...as long as its on an angle and not flat you should be good...the bolts pretty much came right out for me with some leverage...good luck
 
I'm also paranoid about working under car as it is. Not only do i have 4 jackstands holding the car, but i also put cinder blocks under various points to "catch" the car if it falls and put a hydraulic jack up in the area i am working as well. My though is that if the car falls, it will have stuff to land on first before me.
 
yeah and one of these days, you're going to push the jackstand out from under the car and hurt, if not kill yourself.

i've used this method 1000x's as well, but use the wheel, not the jackstand.


LOL. I seriously doubt 100 lbs of laterial force is enough to move a jack stand that is supporting a vehicle. I was a little concerned the first time I tried it. I put a lot of force on the jackstand and wheel before any part of me was under the car. As expected, it didn't move.

As mustang5L5 mentioned, I always put blocks under the wheels, too.
 
I have used heat, a strong leg and the easiest was to put a hydraulic jack under the wrench end and use the jack to lever the wrench up and break the bolt loose. And remember to put the locktite back on when you reinstall the new aluminum driveshaft. I forgot once and it didn't take long for the car to develop a nasty vibration.
 
I've always had good luck with a wrench and hammer. It's sort of a poor man's impact wrench. I've used the double wrench method with no luch, but then i'd just use one wrench and give it sharp quick hits with Ford p/n 5LB-BFH and it actually breaks the bolt loose. It's worked for me countless times.
 
Torque wrench or breaker bar is all i've ever used and had no problems.. Im always scared to use my impact wrench on various things on a car because over tightening is no good and has screwed me big time in the past.