Driveshaft removal questions

Mustang5L5 · Oct 12, 2008

My car isn't at my house, so i need to make sure i bring the correct tools when i go work on it.

WHat sort of wrench is needed for the 4 d/s to rear end bolts? What size and how many points??

Also, how can i remove the yoke from the d/s to stuff back inside the trans to keep fluid in (trans is coming out too at later date) Snap ring pliers?

I'm not concerned with keeping the stock D/S as i have an Aluminum D/S waiting to put in later.

795.0pacecar · Oct 12, 2008

12 point 12mm wrench and another wrench to put on the back of it for leverage.

For the yoke, a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer.

Mustang5L5 · Oct 12, 2008

thanks!

TokyoJoe · Oct 13, 2008

be sure and mark the rear end joint with the DS joint so it goes back on the same way.

90topdown · Oct 13, 2008

D/S bolts are probably lock tited on. So you will need a torch to heat them up to get them off.

Mine would not budge until I got them cherry red.

Once they were heated up they came out fairly easy with the double wrench leverage.

Mustang5L5 · Oct 13, 2008

TokyoJoe said:
be sure and mark the rear end joint with the DS joint so it goes back on the same way.

Well, i'm taking the D/S out for good since I have an Aluminum D/S going back in when i put the 8.8 back in.

67coupe · Oct 13, 2008

As stated earlier 12pt, 12mm wrench. No need for heat or a second wrench. I just use my foot and leg.

I know it sounds red.....but it works very well. Even after I accidentaly used red loc-tite. Just support you upper body by the jack stand or wheel, place the ball of your foot on the wrench and push in the proper direction (IIRC should push on wrench from passenger side) to loosen. I've used this method 10+ times with no problems.

Also, if the car is level and the tranny filled to the proper level, mine hasn't leaked more than a few drops after d/s removal.

Beasty306GT · Oct 13, 2008

When i changed mine out I jacked the rearend up pretty high and put jackstands under the rearend..I had no tranny fluid drip out...as long as its on an angle and not flat you should be good...the bolts pretty much came right out for me with some leverage...good luck

cenok is family · Oct 13, 2008

67coupe said:
Just support you upper body by the jack stand...

yeah and one of these days, you're going to push the jackstand out from under the car and hurt, if not kill yourself.

i've used this method 1000x's as well, but use the wheel, not the jackstand.

The Shape · Oct 13, 2008

I also used the wrench on wrench method to gain leverage when I installed my aluminum d/s. I had an AOD and no fluid leaked when I pulled the old d/s.

Mustang5L5 · Oct 14, 2008

I'm also paranoid about working under car as it is. Not only do i have 4 jackstands holding the car, but i also put cinder blocks under various points to "catch" the car if it falls and put a hydraulic jack up in the area i am working as well. My though is that if the car falls, it will have stuff to land on first before me.

The Shape · Oct 14, 2008

Nothing wrong with that, no one want's to get impaled by their LCA

795.0pacecar · Oct 14, 2008

cenok is family said:
yeah and one of these days, you're going to push the jackstand out from under the car and hurt, if not kill yourself.

i've used this method 1000x's as well, but use the wheel, not the jackstand.

He must have really strong legs.

67coupe · Oct 14, 2008

cenok is family said:
yeah and one of these days, you're going to push the jackstand out from under the car and hurt, if not kill yourself.

i've used this method 1000x's as well, but use the wheel, not the jackstand.

LOL. I seriously doubt 100 lbs of laterial force is enough to move a jack stand that is supporting a vehicle. I was a little concerned the first time I tried it. I put a lot of force on the jackstand and wheel before any part of me was under the car. As expected, it didn't move.

As mustang5L5 mentioned, I always put blocks under the wheels, too.

RYC CUKR · Oct 14, 2008

I have used heat, a strong leg and the easiest was to put a hydraulic jack under the wrench end and use the jack to lever the wrench up and break the bolt loose. And remember to put the locktite back on when you reinstall the new aluminum driveshaft. I forgot once and it didn't take long for the car to develop a nasty vibration.

tiptop · Oct 14, 2008

ya, i did that once with the double wrench thing and snaped the wrench in half, could have easily hurt my leg bad if i had of hit something on the car.

Mustang5L5 · Oct 14, 2008

I've always had good luck with a wrench and hammer. It's sort of a poor man's impact wrench. I've used the double wrench method with no luch, but then i'd just use one wrench and give it sharp quick hits with Ford p/n 5LB-BFH and it actually breaks the bolt loose. It's worked for me countless times.

Stroked N Blown · Oct 14, 2008

I've always had god luck with an impact and I've never gotten tired

67coupe · Oct 15, 2008

Stroked N Blown said:
I've always had god luck with an impact and I've never gotten tired

What drive impact? 3/8 or 1/2? I've been thinking about this too. I currently have a 1/2 impact. With an Alum D/S, I can't see the 1/2 impact working.

What kind of socket do you use?

Boostedpimp · Oct 15, 2008

Torque wrench or breaker bar is all i've ever used and had no problems.. Im always scared to use my impact wrench on various things on a car because over tightening is no good and has screwed me big time in the past.

Driveshaft removal questions

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