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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Driveshaft removal questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mustang5L5
  • Start date Start date Oct 12, 2008
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795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
480
0
17
Senoia, GA
Oct 15, 2008
#21
  • Oct 15, 2008
  • #21
I actually always use my 1/2" impact gun and a special long shanked 12mm 12pt snap on impact socket thats made for ford drive shaft bolts.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,249
17,932
224
Massachusetts
Oct 15, 2008
#22
  • Oct 15, 2008
  • #22
This might be easier, but do i need to unbolt it to remove an 8.8 axle?

Can i drop the axle, pull it out with the D/S and then unbolt it atfer i get it out from under the car?
 

bynummustang

Seen my other Jackstand?
Jul 24, 2005
1
2
69
NC State University
Oct 15, 2008
#23
  • Oct 15, 2008
  • #23
dAMN I WAS LATE
 

93gtmustang

10 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
515
43
49
Oct 30, 2008
#24
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #24
I have to change out my alum. D/S for a new one this winter also, because my it was rubbing on the D/S loop and mufflers.
I read in my Haynes manual that you just make a reference mark on the D/S and rear, unbolt the 4 bolts to the rear first, drop it down, and pull the D/S out of the transmission (T-5).
Then install in the reverse order.
Is that all there is to it?
I didn't install my old alum D/S myself.
Do the u-joints, 4-bolt mounting flange, etc... come completly assembled with it?
Or do you have to use everything from your old D/S?
Thanks
 

warriorpluto

Member
Aug 1, 2007
267
1
19
monroe.LA
Oct 30, 2008
#25
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #25
cenok is family said:
yeah and one of these days, you're going to push the jackstand out from under the car and hurt, if not kill yourself.

i've used this method 1000x's as well, but use the wheel, not the jackstand.
Click to expand...

got chills just thinking about it
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,249
17,932
224
Massachusetts
Oct 30, 2008
#26
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #26
Well just to update i got it out. Put some heat on the bolt, put the wrench on it and gave it a couple whacks with a hammer to break it loose. Didn't need much at all
 

hotcobra03

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
969
4
39
poteet,tx
Oct 30, 2008
#27
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #27
25yrs making shafts.those bolts are always tight.double wrench is ok but i can show you all the facial scars from flyn wrenches.the rear flange fits 2 ways no need to mark.their is 8 holes on pinon flange.they have other size flanges.as per trans fluid the tailstock holds acouple oz s
 

hotcobra03

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
969
4
39
poteet,tx
Oct 30, 2008
#28
  • Oct 30, 2008
  • #28
25yrs making shafts.those bolts are always tight.double wrench is ok but i can show you all the facial scars from flyn wrenches.the rear flange fits 2 ways no need to mark.their is 8 holes on pinon flange.they have 2 other size flanges.as per trans fluid the tailstock holds acouple oz s
 
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