Driveshaft Safety Loop

hivewax · Apr 9, 2008

i just saw this universal safety loop at Jegs...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40734/10002/-1/744057|10061

i like to know what loops all of you bought and how it's installed. and, is 1 enough just in the front? post some pix.

A67StangMaster · Apr 9, 2008

I am ordering the Tcp loop with the subfram connectors

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/sub/PKG-SFC-01_AT.jpg

Its 2 in one.

dennis112 · Apr 9, 2008

I used a universal Summit brand and attached it to my subframe connectors. Makes for an easy R&R.

For pics and details: http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tech-exchange/467156-driveshaft-safety-loop-installation.html

chromedog · Apr 9, 2008

i have the o.e. shelby style, and feel that though it is a pretty lightweight piece, it would be effective in case of U joint failure. it mounts to the seatbelt bolts, (uses longer seatbelt bolts, along with a pair of tubular spacers.) and is situated in the center of the driveshaft, more or less, and prevents either end of the 'shaft from dropping to the ground if that end of the shaft is loose...

dennis112 · Apr 9, 2008

chromedog said:
i have the o.e. shelby style, and feel that though it is a pretty lightweight piece, it would be effective in case of U joint failure. it mounts to the seatbelt bolts, (uses longer seatbelt bolts, along with a pair of tubular spacers.) and is situated in the center of the driveshaft, more or less, and prevents either end of the 'shaft from dropping to the ground if that end of the shaft is loose...

Yeah, I got one of them laying around here. It "may" keep the shaft from hitting the ground, but at the expense of the driveshaft tunnel, fuel lines and brake lines (at least in 65/66.)

No thanks.

HookandLadder · Apr 9, 2008

Might want to check these specs out: Straight from the 2008 NHRA Rulebook>>

In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Recommended the loop be round rather than oblong to minimize loading on loop.

MUST be within 6 inches of front U joint. And YES!!! There is a reason for this.

enferno · Apr 9, 2008

HookandLadder said:
Might want to check these specs out: Straight from the 2008 NHRA Rulebook>>

In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Recommended the loop be round rather than oblong to minimize loading on loop.

MUST be within 6 inches of front U joint. And YES!!! There is a reason for this.

but but! i want my car to be a pole vaulter!

HookandLadder · Apr 9, 2008

Actually........the pole vaulting thing never happens. Metal will come up through the floor though, and rip tranny lines which spew fluid, which is not good for traction.

brianj5600 · Apr 9, 2008

I copied Dennis as far as trimming the universal loop to get it more round. Mine bolts to the floor pan though. It is not easy, but you can get nuts on top of the floor pan through the seat mount holes.

satanas · Apr 9, 2008

HookandLadder said:
Actually........the pole vaulting thing never happens. Metal will come up through the floor though, and rip tranny lines which spew fluid, which is not good for traction.

I had a friend that broke his driveshaft on a mach 1 and his car lifted up a few feet of the ground didn't look like much damage but when we got under the rear to remove the shaft and replace the u-joints we noticed it had a 2-3 inch gap from wheel to wheel.So who knows what could of happened if he was going faster.

hivewax · Apr 10, 2008

Dennis, did you have to make holes into the floor pan for the 4 bolts on each side like what BrianJ said? are the nuts on the interior or exterior? your setup looks great by the way.

anyone try the METCO loop sold by Year One??

dennis112 · Apr 10, 2008

hivewax said:
Dennis, did you have to make holes into the floor pan for the 4 bolts on each side like what BrianJ said? are the nuts on the interior or exterior? your setup looks great by the way.

anyone try the METCO loop sold by Year One??

My bolts are completely external. The brackets that are welded to the subframe connectors are tapped. The bolts pass through the universal loop and thread into those brackets. Nothing goes into the floorpan, which was the reason I designed this system this way. I do not need to do anything in the interior to drop the loop.

When placing the loop, be sure to allow clearance so you can later get to your seat removal nuts. You will find that the seat access holes are just borderline with the IHRA 6" rule.

hivewax · Apr 10, 2008

Dennis, what was used to thread the brackets?

dennis112 · Apr 10, 2008

As the article says, I made a mounting for the subframe connector to attach to. I used some 3/8" thick strapping material that I tapped prior to welding to the subframes--I used a common bottom tap that matched the threads of the bolts that I wanted to use.

My CE brand subframes have a 1/2" gap between the floor pan and the subframe and that is the area that I attached the strapping. The strapping actually goes over my subframes and I was able to weld from the rockerpanel side too. Before I did any welding, I laid the strapping over the holes in the loop and center marked the holes. Then I drilled and tapped the 4 holes, making sure they matched the holes in the loop. I then assembled the loop around the driveshaft and bolted the strapping to it over the subframes. Once satisfied with the positioning, I welded the strapping to the subframes and added a piece of angle iron under it for additional strength.

I can easily remove the 8 bolts and drop the loop down if needed. Because the holes were properly drilled and tapped, the bolts turn easily with my fingers once they are broke loose with a wrench.

hivewax · Apr 10, 2008

thanx for the details.
my sub-frames lays up (welded) against the floor pan, which will require making holes + bolting those 8 bolts to the floor pan. unless i bring the angle down...

dennis112 · Apr 10, 2008

Yep, bring the angle down. Drop it about 1/2" and this will be your shelf. Then attach your strapping to the angle iron.

hivewax · Apr 10, 2008

yeah, i caught that. it wouldn't be as sturdy as yours, but it'll get the job down...

dennis112 · Apr 10, 2008

hivewax said:
yeah, i caught that. it wouldn't be as sturdy as yours, but it'll get the job down...

If welded to the angle iron and then welded to the subframe it will be quite sturdy. If you were really concerned about strength, use a longer piece of angle iron to allow for more welding attachment to the subframe.

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