dtc 332 egr valve

You're on the right track. Be sure the EGR position sensor is connected (electrically). Check the KOEO baseline. It should be under 0.50 volts.

Really check over that vac line to the EGR valve. I disconnect both ends of it, plug one end and pull a vac (with a Miti Vac) on the other end. That line has to hold vacuum. And it's known for breaking, esp at the EGR valve itself and behind the alternator.

Be sure there is constant manifold vac to the solenoid's inlet.

Be sure the EGR and FPR vac lines are not crossed.

To check the wiring to the EGR solenoid, put a test light across the electrical connector and run codes. The EEC will ground the solenoid for a second to test it. Your test light will illuminate.

Because your car didnt try to stall, that can suggest that the EGR passages are coked up. Generally this occurs inside the EGR valve itself however, and your EGR valve is new.

That's what comes to mind right now.
Good luck.