I was thinking of a Willwood type setup not so much something for a newer car.I have a 65 with stock power brakes and the Grenada front disc swap. I want to change to a dual master cylinder and would like to get one with a new booster.
I can't seem to find anything that is a power to power upgrade, just manual to power upgrade.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Well, there are different booster mount patterns...but no, master cylinder mount patterns are the same. Generally speaking power brakes and manual brakes have a different bore size for the master cylinder. Swapping bore sizes will affect brake feel and travel, whether it goes from softer to harder or harder to softer will depend on which way you are talking about....Why wouldn’t a manual to power set up work for a power to power application? Different booster mounts or something?
Yeah i'm aware of bore sizes for manual vs power cars, larger bore masters will push more fluid but will require more pedal effort due to the force being exerted over a wider surface area. I just wasn't sure why he wouldn't just buy any booster/MC set up with a 1" bore if he already has power in his car (as he is asking why nobody makes "power to power" upgrades). Was curious if the stock booster sat flat to the firewall and he didn't want to bend his lines or something, otherwise I would've just bought any power set up with a 1" bore. I have to imagine any proper fitting master cylinder would have stroke limited by pedal travel.Well, there are different booster mount patterns...but no, master cylinder mount patterns are the same. Generally speaking power brakes and manual brakes have a different bore size for the master cylinder. Swapping bore sizes will affect brake feel and travel, whether it goes from softer to harder or harder to softer will depend on which way you are talking about.
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Here is a good link that explains it way better than I can. Essentially when talking bore size(with all else being the same, stroke, brake cylinders or pistons)...a larger bore(that what you currently have) will create a stiffer pedal with a shorter travel while a smaller bore will create a softer pedal with a longer travel.
Maybe, maybe not, depends on the pedal ratio there. Any 1" master cylinder "should" work for him...but we are making the assumption than some aftermarket cylinder doesn't have less stroke than stock, and while that is likely the case, its always worth comparing before you spend money...besides, Its not like a Wilwood master is any better function-wise than a Ford master. I use Wilwood mainly when OEMs dont make an equivalent...IE, clutch master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve, etc. I tend to like OEM parts over aftermarket for certain things, unless they are obviously sub-par(like the new mustang plastic clutch master cylinders and lines...why in the world would you use a plastic clutch line when you know people are going to run headers in the general area?).Yeah i'm aware of bore sizes for manual vs power cars, larger bore masters will push more fluid but will require more pedal effort due to the force being exerted over a wider surface area. I just wasn't sure why he wouldn't just buy any booster/MC set up with a 1" bore if he already has power in his car (as he is asking why nobody makes "power to power" upgrades). Was curious if the stock booster sat flat to the firewall and he didn't want to bend his lines or something, otherwise I would've just bought any power set up with a 1" bore. I have to imagine any proper fitting master cylinder would have stroke limited by pedal travel.
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