Engine Duraspark ignition box

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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Oct 4, 2020
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Should the duraspark ignition box be getting very hot temperature wise....
Had to modify my wiring some in my 83 and the " what could be the original" box started the car up fine the few times I have started it...
Today I had a crank no start situation... Getting gas ( its carbureted) and getting 12 volts to the coil... Going to buy a spark plug checker and test spark at the plug.... While diagnosing this ( with the key in the run position ) I put my hand on the " spark box" its really hot, too hot to leave my hand on it... No heat in the engine compartment so it is all internal...
Is this normal??
 
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Thank you General.... I was hoping you would be on here as you probably know more about duraspark than most on here...
 
They sure as hell do get hot! (that's why they fail) (and why they are housed in an aluminum box with a heat sink)
Ford had us put a heat lamp on them for testing
I've been running one since 1980 myself on a Boss 302
Replaced about 4 modules over the years
Get yourself a Rotunda breakerless ignition tester to make diagnosis of the system easier
 
Well..... they do get 'warm' but not 'hot' like you can't touch 'em.
Never heard of anyone fixing them. Our rule was 'if you see goop running down the fender, replace it.'
I thought they were very dependable, just not fixable. The 'goop' seal on the back would get soft and drip onto the fender.
Other than that, I know nothing about 'em.
GM had the right idea with the HEI unit but it's big, ugly and in the way, like in limp's case, that's why GM hid (or tried to) them in the back.
 
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They sure as hell do get hot! (that's why they fail) (and why they are housed in an aluminum box with a heat sink)
Ford had us put a heat lamp on them for testing
I've been running one since 1980 myself on a Boss 302
Replaced about 4 modules over the years
Get yourself a Rotunda breakerless ignition tester to make diagnosis of the system easier
So just because its very hot does not mean its bad?
Well..... they do get 'warm' but not 'hot' like you can't touch 'em.
Never heard of anyone fixing them. Our rule was 'if you see goop running down the fender, replace it.'
I thought they were very dependable, just not fixable. The 'goop' seal on the back would get soft and drip onto the fender.
Other than that, I know nothing about 'em.
GM had the right idea with the HEI unit but it's big, ugly and in the way, like in limp's case, that's why GM hid (or tried to) them in the back.
I would of gone to HEI, but I understand you cannot use the stock air cleaner that is on my 83 if you do... Had many chevys with the HEI distributor and I think its the slickest thing ever...... Have to admit I kinda like this " distributor in the front" set up on this 302.......
Got a new duraspark box coming and I did buy one of the testers ( ebay) manic suggested.... $39...... I plan on keeping this car as my driver... Can't sell it anyways, my sister is half owner in it... One of the deals when she gave it to me...... She bought it when it was a year old.....
 
Removed the old duraspark box and it was a bit hard to get off as it was glued to the fender well from all of the goo that had melted from the back of it... I think this might be the problem...
Cleaning and painting the hold down bolts, so won't know until they dry so I can install the new one..
 
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Yes, they can be repaired. Use solvent, forgot what kind, to remove the potting compound, and then test and repair. I have not done it, but a wise and experienced master electrician said it was easy, back in the day when they were common.
 
Ford used to show us the difference between one of their modules and a Napa Echlin for example in school
The aftermarket ones are just a jumbled mess of resistors, diodes and other basic radio shack stuff
The Ford ones have a I/C and some electronics
 
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