dyno numbers i can't believe, check this out!

Jesus Christ this post is getting old. We all know the dyno was wrong so stop complaining to him. Quick answer; get it dynoed somewhere else or try another car. BTW, what the hell does the drag coefficient and weight have to do with power and a dyno???????????
Now my 2 cents about that blown 408, thats pathetic and I dont believe it. I had a 342 with a D-1 and it turned 516 at the wheels. A blown 408 should easily put down 600 at the wheels.
 
learn a few things about a dyno before writing stuff like you just did. you must not know to much if you have to ask what the drag coefficient (aerodynamics of the car) and weight have to do with it. I guess it doesn’t matter if your car weighs 10,000lbs and has the aerodynamics of a freightliner? i am not complaining, just trying to get some information, something you need to gain a lot more of also, maybe you should just read and learn instead of writing things like u just did. Maybe they didn't put the weight and drag coefficient in correctly for your car and it didn't make but 300at the wheels! Or maybe they did since you don't know anything about it and said your car was 6,000 lbs with a CD of .8, or something like 100hp at 50mph, so they could give you that 516 at the wheels you are so proud of. this is a mustang dyno that takes weight and drag into effect to load it correctly.

did u stop to think that when i find an answer to this that it could help all future dyno users out? that way you could ask the dyno owner is he has done this or that which screwed up my readings.

SmockDoiley said:
Jesus Christ this post is getting old. We all know the dyno was wrong so stop complaining to him. Quick answer; get it dynoed somewhere else or try another car. BTW, what the hell does the drag coefficient and weight have to do with power and a dyno???????????
Now my 2 cents about that blown 408, thats pathetic and I dont believe it. I had a 342 with a D-1 and it turned 516 at the wheels. A blown 408 should easily put down 600 at the wheels.
 
speedytang said:
I can make a car produce about any number on the dyno with just a few key strokes, so I would say something is not within range on the information sheet.
I try to tell people this, and nobody listens.
This is why interpreting track numbers is so much more reliable and a dyno is for tuning not for bragging rights.

Run it at the track and you'll now how powerful it really is.
 
Why not just take it to a different dyno or go to the track to see what it traps. Even if you get the info you are looking for, unless you own your own dyno and are trying to get better at using it, I don't think its worth going through all of this nonsense for a stock car.
 
I'm not going to throw the bs flag up on you, instead I'm holdin' the big :Track: sign. That will tell the truth.

Have you ever taken off the intake, heads, or exaust? Since your the third owner, 14 years, a lot can happen. Someone could have done some porting on the engine but left it completly stock looking for a sleeper factor. Who knows, maby the crank has more than a 3" stroke.
 
i did this for the heck of it because it was free. i was just looking for some reason of what could have done this. i keep hearing about a few keystrokes could have done this and bad calibration that, but i want specifics. what keystrokes and what exact calibrations could cause this? i put this on here to learn from it, that's it. i can then tell my friend to make adjustments if necessary and go from there. if the problem is figured out, then it benefits everybody and can be used by future dyno users.
 
Show us the rest of the dyno sheet...like the top part. It seems to be cut off and see if they have any info on what they typed in. Most dyno sheets I have seen have more than just the power curve listed. Atleast a date/car weight/etc...on it. Show the rest.

Get a picture of the engine for us...just out of curiosity:nice:
 
don't have a scanner at the house for the entire dyno sheet, have to do that at work. here is a pic of the engine.
 

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mr.b said:
i did this for the heck of it because it was free. i was just looking for some reason of what could have done this. i keep hearing about a few keystrokes could have done this and bad calibration that, but i want specifics. what keystrokes and what exact calibrations could cause this? i put this on here to learn from it, that's it. i can then tell my friend to make adjustments if necessary and go from there. if the problem is figured out, then it benefits everybody and can be used by future dyno users.

It could be any number of things, right on down to how the car was secured to the test stand. The point that folks are trying to make to you over and over again (some elequent while others are not) is that it doesn't matter. Since none of us are physically standing infront of the test stand, there's no way to sit here around the campfire trying to decipher what the problem could have been based soley upon your dialog and dyno printout. The bottom line is that the information you were given about your rear wheel output is wrong. A large number of things have to be correct in order to get the proper information. Any number of single items can be incorrect to screw it all up.
 
i agree with you daggar, i am just trying to hear any things that i might not have thought about that could have caused it. These seven runs were made in 2 different test times. the first 4 all back to back. then waited an hour (had to unstrap it and go somewhere) then put it back on and did 3 more. So i figure that rules out the strapping it down part.