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Dyno tune results

  • Thread starter Thread starter GRGT1994
  • Start date Start date Apr 16, 2006
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GRGT1994

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Sep 22, 2004
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#1
  • Apr 16, 2006
  • #1
Let me know what you think. Mods in sig.


 

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Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
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Apr 16, 2006
#2
  • Apr 16, 2006
  • #2
I expected a bit more since you had it professionally tuned at AFM with a PMS. Did they give you any suggestions? The timing and fuel curves look good. Your timing curve is similar to mine.

It is a blower cam but I thought it'd make more. Did you open up the small BBK collector? It necks down to near 2.25".

Since you have 4.10 gears, swapping to a track heat manifold would help up top.
 

zenboy99

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May 12, 2002
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Apr 16, 2006
#3
  • Apr 16, 2006
  • #3
The cats are probably holding you back a little on the top end. That A/F ratio is nice and flat though.
 

S/CBlack95GT

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#4
  • Apr 16, 2006
  • #4
Nice numbers. I believe I guessed 285
 

WhiteDevil

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Apr 16, 2006
#5
  • Apr 16, 2006
  • #5
So what were the numbers before the tune? Did it help alot?
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
2
58
Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2006
#6
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #6
Maybe nix the cats and add a higher duration cam, and you should break the 300 mark. But still, it looks good for the combo and should do well at the track.

Nice to see it put down that kind of power huh?
 

GRGT1994

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#7
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #7
It feels great, SOTP improvement is noticable. We didn't capture a baseline before the PMS, so no measured comparison. But looking at what I pulled on a few runs with my Gtech, I went from a best 0 to 60 before of about 5.1 seconds down to 4.8. And the 5.1 before was kindof a freek run (maybe I caught the wind or was on a downhill?). My typical strong run to 60 before was about 5.5.

I didn't think high flow cats would make much difference. But the curve does look pretty flat at the top. That might be desirable in a street car, but it also might confirm what you guys suggested above (delete the cats and switch to a track heat upper).

I don't really want the volume of a cat-less mid pipe. Any way to lose the cats but quiet it down (other than turbos )? Any other suggestions to put the peak on my power curve?
 
I

IEatRiceGT

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Apr 17, 2006
#8
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #8
how much did the tune cost you?
 

Joes95GT

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Jan 23, 2003
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Apr 17, 2006
#9
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #9
I'd be willing to guess that 1.7 rockers would make a decent bit of difference with that camshaft...

Joe
 

SWYZ721

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Apr 17, 2006
#10
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #10
A little hit off of the hose would make a nice peak
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Apr 17, 2006
#11
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #11
GRGT1994 said:
It feels great, SOTP improvement is noticable. We didn't capture a baseline before the PMS, so no measured comparison. But looking at what I pulled on a few runs with my Gtech, I went from a best 0 to 60 before of about 5.1 seconds down to 4.8. And the 5.1 before was kindof a freek run (maybe I caught the wind or was on a downhill?). My typical strong run to 60 before was about 5.5.

I didn't think high flow cats would make much difference. But the curve does look pretty flat at the top. That might be desirable in a street car, but it also might confirm what you guys suggested above (delete the cats and switch to a track heat upper).

I don't really want the volume of a cat-less mid pipe. Any way to lose the cats but quiet it down (other than turbos )? Any other suggestions to put the peak on my power curve?
Click to expand...


On the big end, I'd be willing to bet moving to the track heat upper will give you more gain than going to an off road pipe.

My guess would be the cats would sap between 5 to 10 rwhp and I think you would be closer to 5 than 10. I've seen some say for a na stock block combo, the loss from high flow cats could be as little as 3rwhp

Did you try a bit fatter ratio

I picked up power moving from 13.0 to 12.5

How much total spark advance

At what rpm is it all in at
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
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#12
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #12
Grady, if you look at the graph you'll see it says "+10 +10 +8 +8". Thats the timing curve added in to the PMS. Assumming he has stand alone ON (it only comes on at 4000 rpm in pre 04 PMS's) that means his WOT timing is 35* total from 4000 and up until it hits 6000, its 33* total. In standalone the PMS sets the total timing to 25* + what you add in.

His curve in the PMS would be 2200 +10, 4000 +10, 6000 +8, 7800 +8
 

GRGT1994

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#13
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #13
Grn92LX said:
Grady, if you look at the graph you'll see it says "+10 +10 +8 +8". Thats the timing curve added in to the PMS. Assumming he has stand alone ON (it only comes on at 4000 rpm in pre 04 PMS's) that means his WOT timing is 35* total from 4000 and up until it hits 6000, its 33* total. In standalone the PMS sets the total timing to 25* + what you add in.

His curve in the PMS would be 2200 +10, 4000 +10, 6000 +8, 7800 +8
Click to expand...
Thx for the clarification. That is all way over my head. Part of the reason I went to AFM to have someone else tune. Looks like I need to start doing some read'n and learn'n on all this stuff.

Hey, can I just pick up the Track Heat upper for my current lower, or do I need the whole $400+ set?
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
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#14
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #14
The upper is a direct replacement for your street heat upper. You only need to buy the upper.
 
B

bimmertech

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#15
  • Apr 17, 2006
  • #15
just curious if the a/f was read by a wideband?
 

GRGT1994

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#16
  • Apr 18, 2006
  • #16
bimmertech said:
just curious if the a/f was read by a wideband?
Click to expand...
yes

Question: What might the trade off be (if any) by changing to a Track Heat upper?
 

GRGT1994

New Member
Sep 22, 2004
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Apr 24, 2006
#17
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #17
TT
 

Black95GTS

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Jan 8, 2004
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Apr 24, 2006
#18
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #18
GRGT1994 said:
yes

Question: What might the trade off be (if any) by changing to a Track Heat upper?
Click to expand...

Your power band will shift up. The car will want to rev a little higher, but with a 4.10 screw that won't be an issue. Notice how your HP starts to die around 5500? Now it will start to die around 6500. Torque loss will be negligible compared to gains in HP.

It's a good middle of the road intake.... shorter runners for the track but not tooo short where you limit rpms.

Depending on how high you spin the motor, make sure your valve springs are up to snuff. Not sure about the TW stuff.

Adam
 
9

95vert354

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Apr 29, 2006
#19
  • Apr 29, 2006
  • #19
Black95GTS said:
Your power band will shift up. The car will want to rev a little higher, but with a 4.10 screw that won't be an issue.

Adam
Click to expand...






Grn92LX said:
Since you have 4.10 gears, swapping to a track heat manifold would help up top.
Click to expand...







Saw something here and had a question. I see both of you mention he has a 4:10 gear ,but the dyno sheet shows a 3:73. Wouldn't this make a difference on the actual HP/TQ numbers? I dont have any experience with dyno's but I'm getting ready to put mine on one for a tune, and common sense tells me it would give an incorrect reading
 

Zero Signal

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Feb 24, 2003
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Apr 29, 2006
#20
  • Apr 29, 2006
  • #20
If he had 4.10s and they entered in 3.73s, his dyno would be uniformly high by 10% which I doubt is the case.
 
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