Dyno tune results
- Thread starter GRGT1994
- Start date
I expected a bit more since you had it professionally tuned at AFM with a PMS. Did they give you any suggestions? The timing and fuel curves look good. Your timing curve is similar to mine.
It is a blower cam but I thought it'd make more. Did you open up the small BBK collector? It necks down to near 2.25".
Since you have 4.10 gears, swapping to a track heat manifold would help up top.
It is a blower cam but I thought it'd make more. Did you open up the small BBK collector? It necks down to near 2.25".
Since you have 4.10 gears, swapping to a track heat manifold would help up top.
zenboy99
Founding Member
The cats are probably holding you back a little on the top end. That A/F ratio is nice and flat though.
S/CBlack95GT
New Member
WhiteDevil
New Member
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
Maybe nix the cats and add a higher duration cam, and you should break the 300 mark. But still, it looks good for the combo and should do well at the track.
Nice to see it put down that kind of power huh?
Nice to see it put down that kind of power huh?
It feels great, SOTP improvement is noticable. We didn't capture a baseline before the PMS, so no measured comparison. But looking at what I pulled on a few runs with my Gtech, I went from a best 0 to 60 before of about 5.1 seconds down to 4.8. And the 5.1 before was kindof a freek run (maybe I caught the wind or was on a downhill?). My typical strong run to 60 before was about 5.5.
I didn't think high flow cats would make much difference. But the curve does look pretty flat at the top. That might be desirable in a street car, but it also might confirm what you guys suggested above (delete the cats and switch to a track heat upper).
I don't really want the volume of a cat-less mid pipe. Any way to lose the cats but quiet it down (other than turbos
)? Any other suggestions to put the peak on my power curve?
I didn't think high flow cats would make much difference. But the curve does look pretty flat at the top. That might be desirable in a street car, but it also might confirm what you guys suggested above (delete the cats and switch to a track heat upper).
I don't really want the volume of a cat-less mid pipe. Any way to lose the cats but quiet it down (other than turbos
)? Any other suggestions to put the peak on my power curve?
SWYZ721
Member
GRGT1994 said:It feels great, SOTP improvement is noticable. We didn't capture a baseline before the PMS, so no measured comparison. But looking at what I pulled on a few runs with my Gtech, I went from a best 0 to 60 before of about 5.1 seconds down to 4.8. And the 5.1 before was kindof a freek run (maybe I caught the wind or was on a downhill?). My typical strong run to 60 before was about 5.5.
I didn't think high flow cats would make much difference. But the curve does look pretty flat at the top. That might be desirable in a street car, but it also might confirm what you guys suggested above (delete the cats and switch to a track heat upper).
I don't really want the volume of a cat-less mid pipe. Any way to lose the cats but quiet it down (other than turbos
On the big end, I'd be willing to bet moving to the track heat upper will give you more gain than going to an off road pipe.
My guess would be the cats would sap between 5 to 10 rwhp and I think you would be closer to 5 than 10. I've seen some say for a na stock block combo, the loss from high flow cats could be as little as 3rwhp
Did you try a bit fatter ratio
I picked up power moving from 13.0 to 12.5
How much total spark advance
At what rpm is it all in at
Grady, if you look at the graph you'll see it says "+10 +10 +8 +8". Thats the timing curve added in to the PMS. Assumming he has stand alone ON (it only comes on at 4000 rpm in pre 04 PMS's) that means his WOT timing is 35* total from 4000 and up until it hits 6000, its 33* total. In standalone the PMS sets the total timing to 25* + what you add in.
His curve in the PMS would be 2200 +10, 4000 +10, 6000 +8, 7800 +8
His curve in the PMS would be 2200 +10, 4000 +10, 6000 +8, 7800 +8
Thx for the clarification. That is all way over my head. Part of the reason I went to AFM to have someone else tune. Looks like I need to start doing some read'n and learn'n on all this stuff.Grn92LX said:
Hey, can I just pick up the Track Heat upper for my current lower, or do I need the whole $400+ set?
Black95GTS
Active Member
GRGT1994 said:
Your power band will shift up. The car will want to rev a little higher, but with a 4.10 screw that won't be an issue. Notice how your HP starts to die around 5500? Now it will start to die around 6500. Torque loss will be negligible compared to gains in HP.
It's a good middle of the road intake.... shorter runners for the track but not tooo short where you limit rpms.
Depending on how high you spin the motor, make sure your valve springs are up to snuff. Not sure about the TW stuff.
Adam
Black95GTS said:
Grn92LX said:
Saw something here and had a question. I see both of you mention he has a 4:10 gear ,but the dyno sheet shows a 3:73. Wouldn't this make a difference on the actual HP/TQ numbers? I dont have any experience with dyno's but I'm getting ready to put mine on one for a tune, and common sense tells me it would give an incorrect reading
Zero Signal
Active Member
If he had 4.10s and they entered in 3.73s, his dyno would be uniformly high by 10% which I doubt is the case.
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