Dyno Tunes? Tell me more please?

Basically a dyno will set your timing, fuel pressure, air/fuel curve, etc to a setting that makes the most power. This is determined by the number of pulls you want to do. The more pulls you want, the better the tune will be but that requires more time = more money. Some places have special deals. For example, an hour and a half of tuning, a chip, and a custom tune for around $400-$500 is the norm. When you go to a dyno the guys there tune your car. If you want to tune it yourself there are tuning devices you can buy like the tweecer for example that allow you to adjust all the timing, fuel curve etc yourself by trial and error until you find one that makes the most power. This is usually pretty hard to do since the learning curve for self tuning devices is pretty steep and long. From your sig i see you have a blower, but no AFPR. This is hurting you ALOT. You really really need to get one and increase your fuel pressure from 35psi(stock) to about the 45 range. I bet just from the AFPR and a custom chip burned you are looking at an extra 25-30whp in that combo of yours. Other stuff dynos can do are 1/4 mile runs, 1/8th mile runs etc etc.

fiveo'cobra said:

From your sig i see you have a blower, but no AFPR. This is hurting you ALOT. You really really need to get one and increase your fuel pressure from 35psi(stock) to about the 45 range. I bet just from the AFPR and a custom chip burned you are looking at an extra 25-30whp in that combo of yours.

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Stock is 39 psi. AFPR's are a pet peeve of mine, I think they are waaaay overused. As long as the injectors are appropriately sized, fuel pressure should be left at 39 psi. Fuel delivery should be calibrated with a tuning device (chip/tweecer/whatever).

eschlenz -- I'd recommend getting properly sized injectors, ditching the FMU, and getting a custom chip burned (or a PMS, Tweecer, or similar device if you want to do it yourself). You'd probably gain a good bit of power, because FMU's usually end up causing a really rich mixture at the top-end.

It would be better to let them tune it at the dyno facility. Most of the time 2 runs along w/ your A/F Raito is about $75 ( norm ) and a dyno tune session and chip like said before is about $400. I had a chip and tune done for mine and june and it was a flate rate fee of $400 regardless of the time needed on the dyno to get it to run the way I wanted it. Since you have a blower I would reccomend the chip. The SCT Superchips are nice b/c they can be reflashed if needed. My car was tunned at the stock fuel pressure setting of 39. And deff get and adjustible fuel pressure regulator, I would get that before you decide to get a dyno tune.

I agree with Dave (rootus)

If you are gonna self tune, don't waste any money on an afpr. Instead, put that money towards a wide band.

You will need a wide band to accurately see your wot af ratio and since you are forced induction, you really need one to be safe.

Later
Grady

eschlenz said:

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Strip5.0 and rootus: One of you says go the AFPR route, the other says the fuel injector route. Can you guys tell me what your experience is that lead you either way?

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What I ment was that if your running a S/C its good to have an AFPR just so you know what your FP is at. When it comes to tunning the car Id rather have it done w/ big enough injectors that will take care of the fuel issue VS having to bump up the FP. But if you go the Tweecer route then you wont need one b/c like Grady said you can just get a wide band sensor.

I sencond Gradys opionion. Having a Tweecer is great, but if you go that route - you cant tune A/F for beans without a wideband.

-Jason

I use a pms and wide band. There is one on ebay Item number: 4563728100