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e7 heads on an early 302

  • Thread starter Thread starter hungrymonkey
  • Start date Start date Jun 21, 2005

hungrymonkey

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Jun 21, 2005
#1
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #1
do I need to do anything to swap a set of late model e7 heads onto an early 302? the block is date stamped as a 74.
 

rbohm

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tucson,az
Jun 21, 2005
#2
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #2
bolt them on.
 

jeffnoel

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Jun 21, 2005
#3
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #3
They will bolt right on, but you may need different push rods.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#4
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #4
Before bolting them on, lay the head gaskets on both the head and block to make sure there's no blocked passages ( other the the front one) As for pushrods, you'll need ones for a 78-84 302 ( pedestal rockers and flat tappet cam) I'd also do a clean up on them with a die grinder before using them, grind the thermactor bumps down flush in the exhaust ports and remove any other sharp edges in the chambers and ports. If you're gonna have them reworked, I'd also blend the bowls too, under the valves.
 

hungrymonkey

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#5
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #5
I was going to do a gasket match today and smooth out the, sticking any rotating metal grinding thing inside the bowls scares me. be my luck I will hit something that should not be ground on.

I will give it a try though
 
D

D.Hearne

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#6
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #6
Just steer clear of the seats. You'll do fine. I got faith in ya, Monkey There's usually some rough stuff under the valves where the tooling for the seats was shoved down too far. When doing the chambers, get a couple of old valves to use as seat protecters when grinding.
 

hungrymonkey

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#7
  • Jun 21, 2005
  • #7
I did the exhaust ports on one head today. My lord thats a lot of grinding. the thermactors were the easy part. Now I am trying to get it all level and smooth.

I did not find much under the valves. a few raised spots that I ground down.

I will use the valve trick to protect the seats.
 
D

D.Hearne

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Jun 22, 2005
#8
  • Jun 22, 2005
  • #8
Yea, there is a lot of grinding, and the results can't be measured, unless you dynoed it before the work, but the piece of mind that all that restriction is gone is worth the trouble. I also raised the port roofs on the set I did and opened the sides by a good 1/4" to match the headers better. I did nothing to the port floor, other than polishing.
 

hungrymonkey

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Jun 24, 2005
#9
  • Jun 24, 2005
  • #9
when should I replace the retainers? The heads have around 60k on them.
 
D

D.Hearne

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#10
  • Jun 26, 2005
  • #10
If anything replace them with a set of one piece retainers, but as to when? If you're planning on winding it up to 6000+ regualrly, yea, I'd change em now.
 

hungrymonkey

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Jun 26, 2005
#11
  • Jun 26, 2005
  • #11
its like $30 for valve seals and "high performance" retainers

might as well replace them now.
 
6

65stang289

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Jun 26, 2005
#12
  • Jun 26, 2005
  • #12
what size valves do you have.
 

hungrymonkey

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#13
  • Jun 27, 2005
  • #13
stock sized valves.
 
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