Edel. Performer RPM heads on '66 289 ci

pazcarguy · Sep 11, 2008

I just had my short block redone to install the Edelbrock top end kit on my 1966 289. I am getting misleading info from Edelbrock thru their e-mail tech and also while waiting on the phone and actually speaking to someone in person from Edelbrock. My question is ,who has put these on a 289 and what is involved with the head bolts? I am purchasing kit #2091 from Summit that states it will fit on either a 289 or 302. I understand that the head bolts are different for the two different engines, is this correct? If so, Edelbrock e-mail tech line tells me I have to buy their head bushing kit and new head bolts for an additional $110.00., their phone people tell me just the bushings need bought. It doesn't make sense as the thread size,pitch and head bolthole ID are the factors involved Will the original bolts (included in kit #2091 work) or do I just have to buy bushings or do I have to buy both? It is misleading that both Edelbrock and Summit sell these for both engines but then tell you later that the bolts included in the kit won't work. just trying to sort thru the BS before commiting as it appears that Edelbrocks left and right hands aren't talking to one another. Thanks, Brian

hsr · Sep 11, 2008

I have Edelbrock Performer heads. They were on my 289 and now on my 5.0/302. I used the same ARP studs on both the 289 and 302. The thread pitch is the same and both take 7/16" diameter. Can't see any reason you need new bolts, UNLESS the mounting bosses are thicker on the Edelbrocks than your stock irons (meaning LONGER bolts), as I went to studs and never comparred them to the length of the stock bolts.

The heads have clearance holes for 1/2" head bolts/studs so they will fit on 351W as well. Yes, you will need the bushings to reduce the holes for your 7/16" bolts/studs. That kit EDL-9680 is $49.95 from Summit.

65fastbackresto · Sep 11, 2008

Dont forget the steam holes.....

I have Performer RPM`s on an older 302 as well, and my builder did not drill the steam holes in the block as instructed with the heads. I have a motor that will not stay cool at idle no matter what I do (electric fan is next on the list).

Trust me on this, this single issue has caused me more aggravasion then any other thing on the car, I`ll never be able to ride in a parade, stop and go traffic is a no no, and this is after me spending $700 on a griffin radiator, and another $200 on a ho flow water pump.

I hope you went the 1.90 valves right? The 2.02 are overkill.

mrmustangman357 · Sep 11, 2008

2.02 are not overkill. you need to buy just the bushings for those heads. there is no difference in head bolts between a 289 and a 302

coolblue65 · Sep 11, 2008

Couple things.

Just so you know the bushings are esentially a fancy washer, that fills the space for the smaller 289/302 block's head bolts. And yes as already said you do need them.

As far as the valve sizes are concerned, if you are using flat top pistons the 2.02" valves probably wont fit unless the pistons are notched for them.

pazcarguy · Sep 12, 2008

Additional Edelbrock info

I received an e-mail from their tech support (late last night) who now tell me that both the corect head bolts and bushings are included in the kit. My "new" concern is that I had a response on the forum that steam holes needed drilled in the block (someones experience). excuse my ignorance, but what the hell are these for and why are they needed? I already have my short block done and don't want to tear apart for additional machine work. This was never discussed with my conversations with Edelbrock before, they just stated you need 9.5~10~1CR to make their stated power claims using flattop pistons with valve reliefs. Any ideas? Brian

GNGREN · Sep 12, 2008

pazcarguy said:
My "new" concern is that I had a response on the forum that steam holes needed drilled in the block (someones experience). excuse my ignorance, but what the hell are these for and why are they needed?

You didn't mention the part# for the heads you have.

Follow this link and look at #1 under Installation. If you have a 289 block I would say it needs drilled.
Edelbrock install instructions for steam holes

hsr · Sep 12, 2008

pazcarguy said:
My "new" concern is that I had a response on the forum that steam holes needed drilled in the block (someones experience). excuse my ignorance, but what the hell are these for and why are they needed? I already have my short block done and don't want to tear apart for additional machine work. This was never discussed with my conversations with Edelbrock before, they just stated you need 9.5~10~1CR to make their stated power claims using flattop pistons with valve reliefs. Any ideas? Brian

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/6000/60229.pdf

Page 2, Section 2, Paragraph 1 and Figure 2.

D.Hearne · Sep 12, 2008

pazcarguy said:
I received an e-mail from their tech support (late last night) who now tell me that both the corect head bolts and bushings are included in the kit. My "new" concern is that I had a response on the forum that steam holes needed drilled in the block (someones experience). excuse my ignorance, but what the hell are these for and why are they needed? I already have my short block done and don't want to tear apart for additional machine work. This was never discussed with my conversations with Edelbrock before, they just stated you need 9.5~10~1CR to make their stated power claims using flattop pistons with valve reliefs. Any ideas? Brian

Read 65fastbackresto's post above. No need to tear the short block down to drill the holes. If it's on an engine stand, just rotate the block to where the deck is facing downward somewhat and drill away. As for the comp ratio, you need to do several things to make sure you get it there. First is determine the deck clearance of the piston tops at TDC, if they're not right up at zero deck, you may need to mill the heads to compensate If you got the 64 cc heads, they will have to be milled to get you anywhere near a 9.5 to 10 to 1 ratio with a 289 crank

65fastbackresto · Sep 12, 2008

I just dont want this guy

to go thru what I`ve been thru with this steam hole issue. Our county fair parade is tommorow and I cant drive my car in it cause of this problem.

65FBE2 · Sep 12, 2008

As far as the bolts go. This may seem to easy but all I did when converting to 351W heads(same 1/2" hole in the head) is drill and tap the block from 7/16 to 1/2. Now I use 1/2 ARP bolts and have much better clamping of the head to the block with out any bushings. I would assume you are getting new bolts anyway. The project takes less than an hour. Use a 1/2" thick block of anything with a 1/2" hole drilled in it to guide the tap striaght
I also agree that 2.02 valves are overkill on a 289 unless it is highly modifed. You will loose intake volositcity and therefore give up bottom end power

iskwezm · Sep 12, 2008

I had them on my 289, and lost compression,the valve springs do not handle lift up to .575 like it claims and I woish i woulda got AFR's but they werent available(about 14 years ago)

Edel. Performer RPM heads on '66 289 ci

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