Edelbrock Power Package

for the money you can do better. But, its an easy way for beginners to build a 'strong enough' street engine in one fell swoop, theres no guesswork involved. Edelbrock relies on ancient cam ginds, decent heads and intakes, and 'ok' carbs.
 
do you have any suggestions for me on a top end that can produce 300hp that is cheaper...i have a 68 with a 302 and i am all ears to the cheapest way to produce this kind of power...thanks
 
do you already have a carb? what heads do you have already? what intake? you could probably just buy heads and a cam and use your old carb and intake if they are half decent and get the 300 ponies you want. Don't forget about things like electric fans or windage trays they help you pick up power that your engine is making but losing because of parisitic drag.
 
you don't need fancy heads to make 300 hp.

Nugget, what parts do you have right now? Also, what is your compression? What trans and rear gear? If automatic, is the converter stock or does it have a higher stall speed? How do you use the car, highway cruising, around town, strip use, etc? I ask because the way you approach the build can vary wildly. If you have an auto trans and need to keep the stock converter, while running a 3.00 gear for highway use, while using a smog era 302 with 8:1 compression, you'll need a whole different combo of parts than an early model car with a 9.5:1 shortblock with a 4 speed stick and 4.10's that sees some city driving and strip use.
 
sorry guys i should have said that my engine is bone stock( to my best knowledge)...two barrel carb, but when i changed my valve covers i did notice that 4v was stamped on my heads...future plans are swapping an 8.8 rear with 4.10 and a locker, also more than likely a t-5, now i have the stock c4...
 
so you need a dual plane 4 barrel intake i would say a 650 holley ore edelbrock carb. they make refurbed models that are really cheap. and a set of afr 165 heads. then you be making good power. and of course a decent cam. 350 ponies from edelbrock's power package or holley's is a nice way to go. i would suggest finding a 302 out of a 5.0L mustang and starting your combo on that engine. then you have a roller cam and forged pistons,.
 
I agree with 302coupe you don't need to blow big bucks on that engine to get 300, that is childsplay for a 302. Firstly a new intake manifold, go with a new cam, roller rockers, upgrade to a 600-650cfm vacuum secondary carb, headers and 2 1/2 inch exhaust and you should be right there. The cam is not even 100% necessary, if you wanted to invest in heads you can try to find a cheap set of D0OE 351 Windsor heads, and just slap them on there. It is very easy to do, the most expensive part would be the headers and exhaust, but that will really wake the engine up, and add some mileage. If you are doing teh 5 speed swap and the gears in the rear, the kick in the pants will be a huge difference, the difference between an auto 3.00 car, and a T-5 with 4.10's is night and day.
 
there was an ad in a local trader magazine for some 351 heads from a 69 model with 1.94 and 1.64 heads...are these good heads, i think he was asking $250 for them. also, what would be the best intake and carb for these particular heads if i went with them...
 
working from a stock longblock with the heads you mentioned (68 302 castings had 4V cast into them), you should have compression somewhere in the mid 9's. What you need-cam with around 225-230 duration at .050, lift around .510, preferably dual pattern with more lift and duration on the exhaust. Go ahead and swap over to a double roller timing chain while you're in there. The cam will come with new lifters, and make sure to get new valvesprings as recomended by the cam manufacturer. Be sure to check the installed height of the springs, it can make or break a cam swap. With the cam in, swap to a performer rpm or weiand stealth intake. For a carb, take your pick, something in the 600-650 cfm range will be fine. I'm partial to double pumpers, doesn't matter though, edelbrock, holley, demon, they all will need some tuning to get just right. For exhaust, I like Hooker Comps with the ceramic coating, coupled to a 2 1/2" exhaust with H or X pipe and some good flowing muffs (magnaflow, dynomax, flowmaster, etc). With everything proerly installed and tuned, you should be right at 300 hp. Roller rockers are nice, but you'll have to remove the heads and send them to a machine shop to have them fitted for screw in studs and guideplates($150-200), plus you have the additional cost of the rockers ($200) and hardened pushrods ($80). It is money well spent, but you can do without it. 300 hp can get an early model into the 12's with the right driving and good traction.
 
nugget68 said:
there was an ad in a local trader magazine for some 351 heads from a 69 model with 1.94 and 1.64 heads...are these good heads, i think he was asking $250 for them. also, what would be the best intake and carb for these particular heads if i went with them...

if the heads are fresh, that would be a worthwhile purchase. Are they set up for screw in studs and guideplates?
 
nugget68 said:
there was an ad in a local trader magazine for some 351 heads from a 69 model with 1.94 and 1.64 heads...are these good heads, i think he was asking $250 for them. also, what would be the best intake and carb for these particular heads if i went with them...
those are the heads you want. i would stick with a wiend stealth or performer rpm intake and a 650 carb.
 
thanks a lot guys for all the help...so i guess my best bet would be the 351 heads i mention...if something as happened and they have been sold, you think that the cam swap with appropriate valve springs would be comperable? as far as the 351 heads i think that they are stock? i honestly forgot to ask...