efi 302 to carb

[sj9ers]

Tomorrow I'm was thinking about purchasing a 1993 t5 and 302 combo to swap into my I6 1967 mustang when I do the conversion down the line. I was wondering what parts I would need to change the efi 302 to a carb setup that is compatible with a 1967 Mustang?
Thanks

 

[biggyfan1]

you will need the carb, lower intake, kick-down cable or rod, coil, distributor and maybe a different timing chain cover depending on if you want a mechanical or electric fuel pump. i changed mine to the mechanical. someone else might add a few more things to my list but i think thats about it. i did this with a 1990 5.0 motor and now it is a 347 in my 66 that is now carbed

 

[rbohm]

you will need to change the timing cover to an earlier model to use the dipstick if yours doesnt have the dipstick hole plugged. at some point ford deleted the opening. you will need a distributor from an 85 mustang gt with the manual transmission. this will give you a dura spark distributor with the required steel gear for the roller cam.

 

[Rusty67]

Good call on the ditributor, thats the one thing that tends to get left out. That steel gear business will bite ya.

You don't NEED to move the dipstick, I didn't. If you don't move it, it makes your header choices a bit limited.

 

[D.Hearne]

If he doesn't want to tackle wiring the Duraspark, he can use a points distributor with a Pertronix, or any other electronic conversion kit, then refit the distributor with a steel cam gear. Or use any drop in electronic with a steel cam gear. The 93 timing cover can be drilled for the front mounted dipstick, but he'll need to run an electric fuel pump. I did this with my 77 Comet, using a low pressure Mr.Gasket 30 gal/hr electric pump on the frame rail, forward of the driver's side rear spring mount.

 

[biggyfan1]

get a Distributor by Mallary part #4255111 from summit.
* CNC-machined billet aluminum housing
* Ball bearing upper and lower bushings for maximum stability at high rpm
* 208 series distributor cap with spark plug wire retainer
* Ready to run
* Easy-to-adjust mechanical advance
* Vacuum advance with vacuum advance eliminator kit
this is what i bought and it works. steel gear too. It also looks good.

you will also need to plug the back of your heads with a bolt or stud to block the smog ports that went to your EGR. I bought AFR heads and the smog ports were on mine so im sure it is like that on most heads so just plug it. i also plugged my dip stick hole with a wood dowel. i now have the dip stick on my timing cover and it just seems better to have it right there any ways.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

If you have a manual transmission with the stock z-bar and linkage, you will also need swap-specific engine-side z-bar pivot. The older blocks had a threaded boss on them, but the roller blocks don't. You need the swap bracket that attaches at the bellhousing bolts.