efi swap, what fuel pump?

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Im running this fuel pump. Its an oem ford truck pump, I dont have the part # but Ill climb under the car and get it in the daylight tomorrow. Some say you need a low pressure pump for suction and then a Hi pressure pump to meet the needs of the efi. I researched it and decided as long as you mount the high pressure pump low enough like I did you dont need a low psi pump. So far it works great and Im fueling a 400+ HP 331 with this fuel pump. Mind you its not a race car and sees limited high rpm use. If I were to run sustained high rpms Id likely need a higher capacity pump, but its perfect for most of the classic car efi swaps.
 
I went the difficult route. I built a special removable baffle and intank pump setup into a 1970 fuel tank. It was a lot of work but it will be as quiet as a Fox body Mustang since that is what I got the pump from and with the built in baffle I will be able to run the thing almost completely out of gas.
 
Ronstang said:
I went the difficult route. I built a special removable baffle and intank pump setup into a 1970 fuel tank. It was a lot of work but it will be as quiet as a Fox body Mustang since that is what I got the pump from and with the built in baffle I will be able to run the thing almost completely out of gas.
Wow! That sounds like a fun project. Do you have any pics or sketches of what you did? Or is it not completed yet?
 
Ronstang said:
I went the difficult route. I built a special removable baffle and intank pump setup into a 1970 fuel tank. It was a lot of work but it will be as quiet as a Fox body Mustang since that is what I got the pump from and with the built in baffle I will be able to run the thing almost completely out of gas.
I'm interested in this as well. I have a brand new in-tank fuel pump that came with the EFI setup I purchased and would like to go this route if possible. Also, doesn't the '70 fuel tank a larger capacity?
 
Hack said:
Wow! That sounds like a fun project. Do you have any pics or sketches of what you did? Or is it not completed yet?
It is complete but I have no pics at the moment. I am currently under "honey do house arrest" and I need to finish painting in the house before I get back in the garage. I have to clean up out there too as it has been taken over by home improvement stuff stacked everywhere but as soon as I get a chance I will snap some pics for you.....just don't hold your breath as it will likely be next week as I am very busy, but I will remember.

Yes the 70 tank is 22 gallons instead of 16, the extra capacity gave me more room to work with in designing the baffle and pump setup plus why not have the extra capacity if you are going to go through the trouble of all this work?
 
My website details my 22 gal install with a header tank setup that works great also. Go to my tech page. I have also have seen some Licoln Mark VII with the EFI have a frame mounted pump also.


G_Htank_2.jpg
 
Ronstang said:
I went the difficult route. I built a special removable baffle and intank pump setup into a 1970 fuel tank. It was a lot of work but it will be as quiet as a Fox body Mustang since that is what I got the pump from and with the built in baffle I will be able to run the thing almost completely out of gas.

i'd like to see that also. sounds like a great idea!
 
Ronstang, I continue to be impressed with your work. The fuel system you devised is more involved than I was expecting but the pictorial is extremely helpful in identifying the parts and work involved in building an in-tank fuel pump system. Major kudos.

-Chuck
 
Thanks for the kind words guys. You do not have make something as complicated as I did. I have a tendency to overengineer stuff since I am of German descent. I design as I build for the most part after coming up with the general concept so I never really know what I am going to have until I get to work.....starting on paper is a waste in my opinion. I get it from my grandpa who was a design machinist and he would make the part then give it to the engineers to take apart and draw up the plans...HAHAHA.

I am kind of particular so you can make something much simpler to suit your needs. The most important part of my design to retain though (IMHO) is the frame that the coverplate screws to. It is made from 3/4" square tubing cut at 45 degree angles on the edges and then welded together to form the frame. The plate was them made and marked for the screw holes (I will use allen capscrews), clamped to the frame and the holes were drilled all at once to make a perfect fit. I started with the hole size needed for the tap to thread the holes...I enlarged the holes in the plate later. I used a drill press for this work but my method will work with a hand drill because you are drilling all holes at once. I used so many holes because the plate is only .090 thick aluminum and I don't like leaks. Use 1/4" material and you can use quite a few less screws. The reason the square tube frame is important is that it keeps the screws from being exposed to fuel that could leak through the threads, this design makes the screws go into a sealed box. Like I said, I don't like leaks.

I use a lot of solder when working with sheetmetal fabricating because it is very versatile, strong, and easy to take apart it needed. I used alot of solder to make sure the frame is sealed very well to the tank. You can practice with solder and get pretty good with it real quick. Keeping things clean and getting them hot is the secret.

Good luck and feel free to ask me any other questions if you need some help.