EGR delete or not?

gcomfx.com

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
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Republic, MO
I wanna hear some pros and cons to deleting the EGR....

Reasons I want to:
Less crap in the engine bay, easier to work on the car.
I can buy fox body headers and save a few bucks????

Reason I'm not sure:
I've heard that living in climates that change a lot the car won't run good???
I hate the CEL light, and don't want it coming on. Is a Zip tie really the best solution?

Let's hear them..... :spot:

Oh, and if we talk me into the delete.... got any pics on how to do it? :D
 
Deleted mine. No issues. I haven't actually deleted it with the tweecer yet, I just plugged the vaccum lines and plugged the header with a 5/8 cap. Then just disconnect the tube from the white piece on EGR and duct tape that plunger thing in half way down. All out or all in will cause a CEL, but halfway doesn't.

Jake
 
You can see straight down to plugs 1,2,3 & 4. :D
You can get an egr plate to block the intake and put a cap on the bung. I got rid of it all completely. You may have a problem with an emissions test dpending opn testing in your area. It looks a lot cleaner and is simple to do. This what it will look like w/o that crap in the way.

noegr.jpg
 
94SC50 said:
You can see straight down to plugs 1,2,3 & 4. :D
You can get an egr plate to block the intake and put a cap on the bung. I got rid of it all completely. You may have a problem with an emissions test dpending opn testing in your area. It looks a lot cleaner and is simple to do. This what it will look like w/o that crap in the way.

No emmisions test here, and I've been saving my pieces (just in case) anyway. ;)

Do you have yours tweeced??? I would rather just plate it and remove the whole thing if the car will still run okay. Mine is rusted and looks like.... well CRAP as you put it. :D
 
Delete it!

I found that driveability improves. My car did have a very slight misfire at steady state cruise in low RPMs. I eliminated the EGR with a plate, cap for the header and the zip tie trick and it worked great. I still get a code (334 or 327, I don't remember which but can check if you want) but it doesn't set the CEL.

Much cleaner engine compartment and my #3 plug wire doesn't get forced into the header any more... :nice:

Did you get my PM?
 
How to...

I went on EHay and did a search for EGR block off plate. Bought the header cap and plate from wazee1. I think the total was about $19 without shipping. The parts came in two days. Very quick.

I could get at the upper connection from the pipe to the EGR valve so I removed it first. Very hard due to corrosion. I then removed the EGR valve and installed the block off plate using high temp silicone.

I tried an adjustable wrench on the tube nut at the header but it started to round off. No room to work. I had to cut the tube off down to the nut with my die grinder so I could get a 1 inch socket on it. I ended up using a 1/2 inch breaker bar and nine inch extension on the socket to get it to budge. Once it starts, it came right off and I installed the cap.

I removed the electrics from the EGR valve (three small bolts hold the sensor on) and taped off half way on the plunger with electrical tape. I then depressed the plunger to the tape and taped it up.

Questions?
 
Don't use electrical tape...

I used electrical tape as a quick way to keep the plunger and zip tie in position. Engine got hot and tape pulled the zip tie off.

I ended up cutting two notches in the side of the white EGR plunger assembly wide enough for me to use a simple hose clamp around the plunger. I then tightened the hose clamp until the check engine light goes off.

By the way, if the plunger is all the way out, you get a CEL and a hard 327 code in the EEC.

If you push the plunger in half way, you get a 334 code but no CEL and a driveability improvement.