EGR elimination

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman
Dec 26, 2006
0
10
49
Thomasville, ga
ive tried searching for this but could someone tell me what i need to do to get rid of the check engine light after disconecting my EGR? i dont want to buy one of those $20 parts that sends a .5 volt signal to keep the light off. is there any way i can do it for free?
 
why would you want to take off the EGR? Unless your car is a race car and you want to have the partial throttle curves incorrect because the EGR sensor is used for that. The only thing you want to remove are to the two coolant hoses (those coolant hoses running into the EGR are for cold winter starts), but for a performance car the hot coolant will warm up the air, thus hurting performance. Just connect the two EGR coolant hoses and be done with it.
 
It's one of those things that doesn't hurt/doesn't help...but everybody wants to do it. I removed my EGR because the sensor died and I didn't feel like spending the money to replace it....but I have a Tweecer, so I just disabled the EGR function. But a lot of people want to remove it to clean up the engine bay, and it doesn't hurt performance to do so....even though it doesn't help performance either.

Same with the coolant lines, a lot of people argue back and forth about them. Some say they are to keep the TB from freezing in cold weather, others say it is to cool down EGR gases. But again, it doesn't hurt or help performance to have them or to disconnect them. Some people just like to clean things up and remove them.
 
From what I understand (which could be wrong plz correct me if so) if you leave your egr valve connected to the wire harness and disconnect it from motor and tie it off somewhere you can really risk detonation in your motor since the computer advances timing in relation to the egr valve since more egr gas = slower combustion and needs more timing. I deleted mine but couldn't afford to get a tweecer to shut mine off in the computer so did spend the 20 bucks on the part (it still kicks out a code 33 in koeo test because if the computer gets this code it deactivates egr system not letting it advance timing any) but no CEL.
 
buy the egr delete bung. i bought it for mine and it worked well..i made a plate to cover the hole on the spacer..or ive seen the plate deletes also, but i think that havin the t.b. farther away from the intake = cooler air...BUT IF YOU BUY THE DELETE PLUG, MAKE SHURE U TAPE THE PLUGS TOGETHER. because mine fell out and didnt know it until i was at the gm park n shine show. i will be getting another one and i will secure it this time.
 
Yeah I hear ya there, my main reasoning was because it was a brand new motor I had just put together and I didnt wanna go pumpin dirty ass air through it :). For the most part I think I did mine as right as you can without actually shutting it off in the computer and don't know how you'd get away from the CEL without a "simulator" (I know theres a way to make your own w/ cheap radioshack parts but is beyond me)
 
was swapin the explorer intake hard?
i have a bbk 70mm throttle body and EGR spacer, do u still use the EGR spacer????
do u still have to run coolant lines to the EGR spacer?

the swap took about 45 minutes taking my time. its real easy.
yes i still use the egr spacer. you have to to keep the throttle linkage still.
and no i do not have coolant lines running to it.
 
hey guys im new to the egr thing...i did the smog pump delete and im building a little street strip thing with a couple buddies i have the motor apart and am wondering should i block it off while im there and what elese do i take off(also have the t.b spacer)can someone break it down to rock level of what to take off if i do the egr delete????:SNSign:
 
The little EGR simulators and resistors that trick the EGR into thinking it's working is worse. The computer will pull fuel and timing in part throttle cruising and you will be running lean. If you delete the EGR, and can't turn off the function via tune or tweecer or other means, it's best to leave the CEL on so the computer sees the EGR is not functioning and adjusts the timing curves. It is safer.

Sometimes removing the EGR is more harm than good however in your case with the exploder EGR-less intake you have a viable reason. Unfortunately, only way to properly do it is via tune/tweecer.
 
Go to an electronics supply store and buy the three resistors and make your own elminator. I did that and it cost me $0.94 including tax. I soldered the resistors together and heat-shrunk around them and soldered them into the EGR wiring. Everything now hides in the wiring harness, there's no CEL and the EGR is non-functional.
 
So I'm putting a track car I bought back on the street. I understand the EGR is disabled and the hoses are off the plate. The vacuum caps they put on the heater supply tube and manifold for the EGR plate coolant hoses like to leak. When I put my new throttle body and EGR spacer plate on, I want to put the hoses back to stop coolant leaks and just in case I get the EGR working. I am not yet sure how it was disabled.

Will the coolant hoses hurt summer performance or help winter warm up/icing?