EGR & MAF problems - ID these parts for me?

[bloopbloob]

ok so i have a code 33 and 66. jrichker has posted some info on how to troubleshoot these, but i'm still a bit confused. if i knew a bit more about this kinda stuff, i'm sure it would be very helpful, but i'm new to this kinda stuff. here are some pics, so if anyone could maybe show(tell) me what parts i'm supposed to be checking, that'd be great. also where is the computer that i'm supposed to check wires against ( eg.) pin C on the MAF with pin 9 on the computer should be less than 2 ohms). thanks

i have a pretty strong vacuum (haven't picked up a vac guage yet) at the vac line shown above. what is part called that it runs into???

Just to make sure, above is the egr valve right?? i cleaned it all out, seems to work fine. there is vacuum from the line going into the egr valve, but not as strong of a vacuum as the line in the first pic above.

What is this stuff??? vacuum regulator solenoid valves??? jrichker said to check for electrical signal ath the vrsv's, located at the rear of the passenger side wheel well. what am i checking here??
Sorry for all the questions. electrical and emission type stuff is chinese to me!

 

[white_97_GT]

1st pic is your fuel pressure regulator

 

[RYC CUKR]

As stated above the first pic is your FPR. It is connected directly to the manifold vacuum so it is not routed through the solenoids on the passenger side inner rear fender.

The second pic is your EGR valve. The line that is hooked up to it goes back into the vacuum line harness and ends up going back to the EGR solenoid valve. The solenoid valve will control the vacuum depending on what the computer tells it to do. So thus you can have varying levels of vacuum on that line. I believe that it is dependant on engine rpm but I am not 100% certain.

The third pic is the EGR solenoid on top and the TAB and TAD solenoids are the two smaller ones on the bottom. The EGR solenoid controls vacuum to the EGR valve to properly control it. The TAB and TAD solenoids control the airflow for the Thermactor system. They route air from the smog pump to either the back of the heads or into the exhaust system right in front of the second set of cats.

And on a side note that thing is pretty damn clean. I wish mine was that nice.

 

[bloopbloob]

thanks for the help! and the comp.! i figured i'd clean it a bit before i took the pics haha. so if i have no smog, can i ditch the TAB and TAD solenoids? if so, just cut the wires? also, still wondering where these 'computer pins' are so i can test my electrical signals? thanks.

 

[vristang]

Your computer is behind the passenger kickpanel in the interior of the car.


jason

 

[bloopbloob]

ok, thanks!, so do i just pull the trim and its there? are all the pins numbered? just curious. i''l be checking tomorrow, but just tying to get an idea of what i have to do...

 

[jrichker]

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 due to missing solenoids or cut wiring.

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See www.Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Passives/Wirewound/OHMITE/43F82RE/displayProduct.jsp?sku=64K8974
If the link fails do a search using the park number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

This isn't a guaranteed fix, but it is cheap enough (less than $10) that you can experiment with it.

 

[RYC CUKR]

Like Jrichker said if you just disconnect the TAB and TAD solenoids it will give you codes. I don't believe that the will trip the CE but whenever you pull codes on the car they will come up. On my 93 I pulled them out and never got a CE but they did show up on the code scanner. I didn't suffer any drivability probs though.