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Elbow deep in Dex!!! 56K Warning!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 69Rcode_Mach1
  • Start date Start date Feb 13, 2006

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 13, 2006
#1
  • Feb 13, 2006
  • #1
I finally took the tranny apart. I bought it rebuilt off of corral. I verified that it is a T-5Z by counting the number of revolutions of the input shaft and the 1st gear. It was 3 turns exactly. So it must be the 2.95 which is the Z-spec. Anyway the thing was having problems going into gear, sometimes it went right in and sometimes it was like hitting a brick wall and would not go in. I called D&D they said it was a clutch issue, which means my stupid hydraulic clutch wasn't disengaging, but it could be synchros, or bent shift forks which is unlikely. But while it is out I would like to have the peace of mind to make sure it is built right. Anyway I want to check out the synchros and shift forks to make sure that the internals are okay. Here are some pics for you guys. I have some vids but don't know how to put them up. I am searching to find them. Here are the pics.























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69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 13, 2006
#2
  • Feb 13, 2006
  • #2
http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=7CFBCEBA-D279-429C-AE27-BA7C096E18A0

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=9B7C726D-22EA-4473-B519-E196664AC2C1

http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=617CB6AD-A0F5-44B8-9A0A-4F6A307BDC60

http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=64DCB183-D93B-4893-A9E7-63C75DA7DEE2
I don't plan on having this tranny last much longer than a year or two at the most before my engine grenades it. Then I am upgrading it with a G-force. This is just temporary but it has to work. Hope these vids help. I want you guys to help me spot anything out of the ordinary. I am hoping it was just the clutch not disengaging properly.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
Feb 13, 2006
#3
  • Feb 13, 2006
  • #3
I was having the same issue on a toploader. It wouldn't shift into any gear at times after coming to a stop, but would down shift like butter before coming to a stop. The clutch was my problem. Good luck.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Feb 13, 2006
#4
  • Feb 13, 2006
  • #4
The trans looks ok. If the shift forks were bent it would be somewhat obvious. Check how easy it is to slide the hubs into gear. Try turning the input shaft and see if any gears stick when trying to engage. That will tell you if there are any serious problems. To be quite honest, a visual inspection of the parts can only tell you something when the internals are seriously worn.

Good things to check..... when you drained the fluid was there metal flakes in it ? Look at the magnet and see if its covered with metal particles.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 14, 2006
#5
  • Feb 14, 2006
  • #5
The thing goes in and out of gear very simple, however coming out of 3rd gear is very hard to push down. It also turns flawlessly.
 
M

MitchGT

Member
Apr 1, 2005
204
0
17
Feb 14, 2006
#6
  • Feb 14, 2006
  • #6
If it was the clutch not disengaging properly it is easy to diagnose. Put the rear on jackstands, and start the car. If you put it in gear, but don't let out the clutch, the rear wheels won't move. If the rear wheels move and the clutch is pressed down all the way then you just need to adjust the clutch alittle until it goes away.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 14, 2006
#7
  • Feb 14, 2006
  • #7
I am stupid and didn't think of that. But now that it is out I need to have peace of mind that I won't have to pull the tranny again possibly.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
Feb 14, 2006
#8
  • Feb 14, 2006
  • #8
MitchGT said:
If it was the clutch not disengaging properly it is easy to diagnose. Put the rear on jackstands, and start the car. If you put it in gear, but don't let out the clutch, the rear wheels won't move. If the rear wheels move and the clutch is pressed down all the way then you just need to adjust the clutch alittle until it goes away.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought too, but...(see my previous post)
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Feb 15, 2006
#9
  • Feb 15, 2006
  • #9
If the pressure plate has a problem adjusting the clutch wont solve it. This is still considered a clutch problem.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 15, 2006
#10
  • Feb 15, 2006
  • #10
Pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing, fork, and everything are all new and have been examined those are okay. The problem is either it was not disengaging properly which I blame entirely upon the ridiculous hydraulic clutch and my inability to bleed it another 1000 times. Or something internal like the synchros, or shift forks. Shift forks are straight with no problems. But listen to the video when I put it in 4th gear and start turning it, notice there is some more noise than before like something is barely touching. When I push on the input shaft like the pilot bearing would it goes away and sounds like the other gears, check it out and tell me what you think. 4th gear is the very top gear closest to the input shaft.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
Feb 15, 2006
#11
  • Feb 15, 2006
  • #11
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
Pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing, fork, and everything are all new and have been examined those are okay.
Click to expand...

As an old wise one once said here, even if it's new, verify that it's good or something to that effect. I've owned my 67 coupe for about 4 years now and the latest clutch is my third new one that I had installed. I don't know what brand the first one was. The second one was a Ram clutch. The most recent is a Centerforce as I had mentioned before. Quality counts.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 15, 2006
#12
  • Feb 15, 2006
  • #12
I had someone with experience check them out. They were good, I need to make sure that it is sound.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Feb 16, 2006
#13
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #13
I tried watching the videos but they were too chopy even on my 3mbit cable so I can't tell you from watching them. If the input shaft is loose then most likely thing I can think of while I'm siting in my chair is that the preload on the bearing is not set properly. From what I understand, the later modle T5's and provably a T5z use a tapered roller bearing which require a proper preload to function correctly. I would take it to a shop and have them double check the preload on it since you already have the sucker out and open.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Feb 17, 2006
#14
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #14
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
The problem is either it was not disengaging properly which I blame entirely upon the ridiculous hydraulic clutch and my inability to bleed it another 1000 times.
Click to expand...

I have read that bleeding these hydraulic units is a pita. I haven't got around to doing mine yet (will soon), but saw on a cable TV show a guy used a MightyVac attached to the slave to bleed the whole hydraulic system. Looked like it worked perfectly and was easy to do. Has anyone tried this approach on the JMC system? I'm thinking this is how I will do mine since I already have a MightyVac.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 24, 2006
#15
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #15
Well I was going to meet my first ever time frame set. 2 weeks engine out disassembled cam swapped, whole thing redone with new gaskets and bearings, the oil pressure issue was resolved, I hate plastigage, the bearings were the wrong size when the plastigage said they were fine. Alas though another issue pops up, the tranny I bought 11 months ago, I took it to a tranny expert here. Well the thing is fried, all synchros and bearings are in need of replacement, the gearsets have 2 gears that are gone, Input shaft is gone and has play, 4th gear only had one good tooth on it, basically this thing has been beat up, and powershifted to death according to my tranny guy. So basically the "brand new rebuilt T-5z" I bought for $750 is scrap metal, I don't know why I bump into all the a55holes on corral. I get to delay getting the car done for another month, and need to figure out a way to try to get my money back from this guy if he won't let me send it back. I will even pay out of my pocket to ship it back. I am going with a G-force kit now that is why it would take another month. I can't bring myself to have invested over $1000 in this T5, I gotta go G-force. The question now is to go with dog ring or synchro assembly. Now excuse me while I vent.






**** ****IN **** SUCKIN SONS OF BITCH MOTHER ****ING GOD DAMNED PIECE OF ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!


(that helped a little)
 
5

5.0ina66

Member
Jun 6, 2003
664
0
16
Ohio
Feb 24, 2006
#16
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #16
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
The question now is to go with dog ring or synchro assembly.
Click to expand...
Synchro...non-synchro trannies are cantakerous and noisy as hell by nature, and you have to either double clutch or rev match ALL the time.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 24, 2006
#17
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #17
I don't mind the noise and whatnot, they come in helical cut and straight cut, I hear the straight cut ones are very noisy. The thing that sounds nice about dog ring, is no synchros just lugs to mash together, seems like it will last longer.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Feb 24, 2006
#18
  • Feb 24, 2006
  • #18
Unless this is a track only car I would NOT put dogs in there. Go with the synchro setup and you already know what you are getting. If you don't and you drive the car a lot, yer going to be sorry.
 
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