Electric Fan alternator question

Today I installed a 94 taurus electric fan into my 87' stang gt, I did some research fist but didnt do enough. That electric fan sucks my alt. dry. My question is, will a 95 130 amp alt. fit into a 87 stang? I want to just go buy a new one from the auto parts but dont know if it will fit. Also is that 130 amp atl. the 3G alt we have all heard of regarding the instal of electric cooling fans? Also right now I have the whole system with the thermostat wired into a kill switch under the dash so the fan wont run when the cars off, how do you wire the system into the iginition system so it cuts the power to the fan when the car is off. :flag:
 
The 94-95 130 amp alt is indeed the 3G. See all the technical links for how-to's. Jrichker has exceptional posts with the nuts and bolts of what's needed, all in plain talk. Glowstang has posted nice pictures of his install, using slightly different fuse parts than Jrichker did (I like Anthony's fuse - it packages nicely).

For the fan, we have no idea what the situation is. If you have an automatic controller with a relay, wire the control side of the relay so it receives only accessory (key-on) power. Post up more specifics in order to get better assistance.

Good luck.
 
I think the alt will fit... but don't count on that... just a guess.... I bought a 3g alt. kit of ebay... for my 88.. came with everything needed to do the conversion... only thing I did differently was run a 4 gauge power wire to the solenoid... I left the original power wire there.. just cut the two power ends off.. in different places and taped them up with the other wires that run to the alt.. I think there is some relays or something hooked up to them.... but just ran the new wire from the spot on the 3g to the solenoid... and routed the same way as the wires that orignally go to the alt.. I also got a overdrive pulley for my alt.. and underdrive crank and water pump pulleys.. .my electric fan is a lincoln mark 8 fan.... I would suggest you purchase a fan controller at some point in time... I just picked up a spal unit... which should be on its way.. but in the mean time.. to keep my car functional... I just have the fan turn on high...(there is high and low) .. when the ignition is on.. for know I just have it hooked up to a relay that came with it that goes directly to the solenoid... which is just temporary.. until my control unit comes.. The spal unit can use the same temp sensor as your temp sensor gauge... eliminates the need for a extra sensor.. you could wire in a kill switch with that spal unit too.. and there is a specific temp for low speed and a temp setting for high speed. both are adjustable.. so you can mainting a perfect operating temp.. I am going to aim for 185 with my 180 degree thermostate.. that way if it gets really hot.. and I happen to be driving her hard... it won't get too hot...
 
oh not to highjack this thread... but the one thing I did which I'm not sure about was run that new 4 gauge wire directly to the solenoid... should I have a fuse in there.. ??? oh and when I get that spal unit should I have a fuse for the fan too??
 
The sense wire is integrated into the OEM charge wires. It's easy to relocate the sense wire if desiring to eliminate the OEM charge wires. Most of us leave them be for reverse compatibility (reinstalling a 2G if the 3G goes south).

Anthony, you absolutely want circuit protection on that charge cable! When choosing circuit protection, select it for the weakest link (the alternator, the cable's rating, etc).

For the SPAL, read the directions. They're available online and IIRC, there's circuit protection between the battery and controller (the load side wiring to the controller).

Good luck.
 
The wire I used is a 4 gauge battery wire... any suggestions on what type of fuse would be good?? Its a 130 amp 3g alt. If someone could let me know what would work that would be great.

Most folks follow Jrichker's lead and use an ANL fuse and fuse holder.

With fine strand 4 AWG cable, the weak link should be the alt itself. Given what fuse sizes are available, I'd get a 125 amper personally. You'll need a holder and eyelets too (to attach the cable to the new fuse holder).

Good luck.
 
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
 
I kind of went overboard with my fuse and got a 200amp for my 3G. Just to make sure it doesn't die on me one day... haha

Is that a bad thing?

Only if there's a short and the charge cable catches on fire before the fuse blows.

For the paranoid crowd, a resettable circuit breaker should work. The User went this route, as did TMoss IIRC.
For me, I'm poor and didnt buy breakers but do have spare ANL fuses in each glovebox.

Good luck.