I'm not familiar of what functions the CCRM has. I know it does a few things and they can corrode and fail.
Now that I think about it, it would have high and low for the factory e-fan. I am not sure how much softer of a low speed start you are trying to achieve (or would even need).
If the factory fan did not have external relays I would still suggest a pair of 70 Amp relays, triggered by the CCRM. One relay for high, one for low.
Now that I think about it, it would have high and low for the factory e-fan. I am not sure how much softer of a low speed start you are trying to achieve (or would even need).
If the factory fan did not have external relays I would still suggest a pair of 70 Amp relays, triggered by the CCRM. One relay for high, one for low.
I don't get it. Everyone seems afraid of the Contour fans starting (with the potential of a power spike). Think of it this way... ECU (or a controller) firing a relay rated at 70 amps is exactly how the Contour/Mystique/Cougar did it from the factory. They made 100's of thousands of these cars, ALL using this system for the fans (that we are trying to use). I have NEVER heard of a Contour having issues with the relays or fans. Just use the factory sized wires, relays and you will not have an issue.
Contours used a 130 amp alternator as well. I have personally owned 3 Contours for a total of over 750,000 kms and NEVER a fan/relay/fan wiring issue or power spike issue. Don't fear how the factory did it - why re-invent the wheel. A soft start is not needed.
What is the factory fusing on your year (as you did have factory e-fan)? Contour uses a 60 fuse to power both relays.
Factory Contour relay portion of engine bay fuse box. Middle of the 3 mega fuses is the 60 used for the fans. The other 2 are now spares.
How I wired my systems (both my Mustang and F150). Wire sizes are factory Contour sizes.
Factory Contour relay portion of engine bay fuse box. Middle of the 3 mega fuses is the 60 used for the fans. The other 2 are now spares.
How I wired my systems (both my Mustang and F150). Wire sizes are factory Contour sizes.
The joys of home ownership lol.
I know it’ll be hot as hell outside and I pretty much never see anything over the 180* I have the stock fan cutting on at. Maybe like 182* or so then it comes back down. Granted I don’t have an a/c condenser in front of the radiator, but It’s tough to fathom it would equate to 40*+ of temperature difference.
Of Course I’ve been wrong before.
You confirmed the “high” speed of the fan is coming on? I’ve actually got mine wired to only use the high speed portion of the wiring. Didn’t even bother to use a soft start controller or anything, just a straight leash relay. I see a minuscule rpm drop when it comes on, but I have to be really paying attention to even notice.
I just did a 5 hour trip today with AC going the whole time. I had my low speed fan on whole time as well. Temps outside were 86-90*F and 105*F with the humidity.
With fan switched off coolant temp would climb to just below triggering low speed while driving (AC off) which is 205*F. With low speed manually turned on and AC on, Temps stayed lower, I would estimate around 180 or so (that's the t-stat I have).
With fan switched off coolant temp would climb to just below triggering low speed while driving (AC off) which is 205*F. With low speed manually turned on and AC on, Temps stayed lower, I would estimate around 180 or so (that's the t-stat I have).
Just lop those balls off, problem solved lol.
You still running the stock radiator?
Heat shield on the floor would be less painful and less than your health insurance deductible. Sitting on a blue ice pack would be even cheaper and chillier.
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