Electric Fan

TrickStang37

New Member

Oct 17, 2004

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Apr 12, 2006

#1

• Apr 12, 2006

• #1

what electric fans do you guys (about ~500hp or so) run? I ran a cheaper proform fan (looked just like black magic fan) with about 360HP (310rwhp) motor before with no problems. I had to keep it off most of the time actually. Im gonna be runnin an aluminum radiator too, as before.

Serious question, why do you need a higher cfm fan for more horsepower if the only time you really need the fan is when its idleing or in high traffic situations? I could see if you need a very good one at the track (road course's etc, not so much 1/4mi drag) since you will be creating alot of heat for a long time period, but for daily driving you only really need it for slow traffic or at red lights, why is a high cfm fan important if your at part throttle 99% of the time?

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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Lexington, Ky

Apr 12, 2006

#2

• Apr 12, 2006

• #2

with more power, probably comes more heat. the more cfm the easier it will be to blow the heat away and keep the engine cooler.

 

TrickStang37

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Oct 17, 2004

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Apr 12, 2006

#3

• Apr 12, 2006

• #3

more power=more heat, i know that. but what about idleing and slow moving traffic? Its not like your flooring it every 5ft in traffic. are high powered cars really making more power at idle/crawling/slow speeds than a stock car to where you can say for certain that it needs a stronger fan??

 

Cannoball888

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Dec 25, 2005

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Gainesville, FL

Apr 12, 2006

#4

• Apr 12, 2006

• #4

Damn good point. Tagging long.

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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Lexington, Ky

Apr 13, 2006

#5

• Apr 13, 2006

• #5

i had to actually put on an electric fan because the previous owner swapped my radiator for a small one (dunno why) and i have no fan shroud (using my flex fan is even worse for cooling)

if you plan on using a good steel fan,5 or 6 blade, and a good quality aluminum radiator then you may not need one. but woud you want to take the risk of overheating your baby? with the small price of i'd say 200 bucks or less you can get a good fan and have that much more confidence.

 

jcode68

Active Member

Jul 15, 2003

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Massachussetts

Apr 13, 2006

#6

• Apr 13, 2006

• #6

I'm interested in this topic as well for my 68 FB. I have read a lot of threads on this board and many people suggest using a Northern/Summit aluminum radiator given the price/performance. I have a new Edelbrock aluminum passenger side water pump and do not want to run the hose from the drivers side. Seems like you gotta spend big $ with Griffin or Be Cool to get a stock fitting radiator for the 68. I would like to know what you and others ended up using for the radiator/fan configuration.

 

stangonline

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Feb 22, 2003

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Apr 13, 2006

#7

• Apr 13, 2006

• #7

You dont want your temps to swing too much. If you are making a lot of power and have a low cfm fan, your temps could get up there when you are on the gas, stop for traffic, then heat-soak. The lower cfm fan would take longer to normalize the temp. If you're moving enough air, and USE a thermostat, your temps should stay pretty close to the same.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

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Apr 8, 2001

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Apr 13, 2006

#8

• Apr 13, 2006

• #8

Even when idling, isnt your High Performance engine tuned to dump more gas into the engine? More gas + more air in high performance heads= bigger explosion = more heat? Wouldnt that necessitate a better cooling system?

I run a spal fan and a chevy aluminum radiator and I make close to 400 at the wheels.

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

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Rowland Heights,California

Apr 13, 2006

#9

• Apr 13, 2006

• #9

I have 2 pusher/puller 16" fans, probably about 2000-2200 cfm each, but im going to switch to a Taurus fan pretty soon

 

TrickStang37

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Oct 17, 2004

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Apr 13, 2006

#10

• Apr 13, 2006

• #10

allcarfan said:

Even when idling, isnt your High Performance engine tuned to dump more gas into the engine? More gas + more air in high performance heads= bigger explosion = more heat? Wouldnt that necessitate a better cooling system?

I run a spal fan and a chevy aluminum radiator and I make close to 400 at the wheels.

Click to expand...

does a properly tuned high performance motor really make THAT much more power at or near idle than a stock car? from what i've seen, most high performing engines tend to be a little weaker right off idle.

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

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Rowland Heights,California

Apr 13, 2006

#11

• Apr 13, 2006

• #11

TrickStang37 said:

does a properly tuned high performance motor really make THAT much more power at or near idle than a stock car? from what i've seen, most high performing engines tend to be a little weaker right off idle.

Click to expand...

they're not really "weaker" off idle,its just that the powerband is moved up from the the cam/heads.Mine is a little sluggish then at about 3500-8000 rpm it pulls like a freight train

 

F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"

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Dec 6, 1999

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BC Canada

Apr 13, 2006

#12

• Apr 13, 2006

• #12

allcarfan said:

Even when idling, isnt your High Performance engine tuned to dump more gas into the engine? More gas + more air in high performance heads= bigger explosion = more heat? Wouldnt that necessitate a better cooling system?

Click to expand...

I agree.

High performance engines arn't very efficient at idle, so you end up dumping more fuel into the mix. Which results in higher temps. Although I'm sure you don't need twice the fan if you double the HP.

 

TrickStang37

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Oct 17, 2004

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Apr 13, 2006

#13

• Apr 13, 2006

• #13

i know, and mine was more likely to chug alot more below 1700 rpm. off idle it would not have the same pull and was wanting to just die below 1250 rpm.