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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Engine electric fans,help

  • Thread starter Thread starter afso
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2018
A

afso

Member
Aug 16, 2018
48
0
6
texas
Sep 14, 2018
#1
  • Sep 14, 2018
  • #1
hey guys I got a 90 fox,and wana get rid of that big heavy fan and go with a electric, went to the salvage yard and they was a lot,so which kind of cars electric fans have anybody used that fits really in fox, ,,,are the fans in the newer v6 mustangs good for a v8 fox
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Sep 14, 2018
#2
  • Sep 14, 2018
  • #2
do a search .. been asked and answered about 1000 times
  • Taurus V6 or Dual Contour/cougar or 94/95 GT Fan
  • Flex a lite 33054 controller

That being said, a properly working clutch fan will outperform most any electric fan and is more reliable. Unless your fan is not functioning properly, leave it be.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
28,120
10,739
213
polk county florida
Sep 14, 2018
#3
  • Sep 14, 2018
  • #3
If you chose to install the electric fan you will then need to upgrade the charging system.
like what mike said above, the clutch fan very efficient when working properly, you gain very little by switching.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Sep 14, 2018
#4
  • Sep 14, 2018
  • #4
If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The high current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30 or more amps and you need to use #10 or #8 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.




Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.
See my post at https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...-sooo-much-amperage-help.859590/#post-8645892 to get the drawings and full details.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

 
Last edited: Sep 14, 2018
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