• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Electrical Electrical drain driving me crazy

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mstng93SSP
  • Start date Start date Apr 20, 2018
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
2,993
3,500
184
Mililani, Hawaii
Apr 20, 2018
#1
  • Apr 20, 2018
  • #1
Ok, my 94 cobra is still draining the battery if it sits for more then 2 days. I hooked up a multi meter between the negative post and battery cable and see there is a draw. I pulled EVERY fuse and nothing changed. I also tried this same method with a test light and the light never went out. I also tried completely unplugging the alternator, no change. I unhooked the starter cable at the starter, no change. I completely unplugged the stereo and amps, no change. I replaced the airbag module (because it was bad), no change. I unplugged the cluster, no change. I replaced the keyless entry module because I had one, still drained. I unplugged the ccrm and no change. Electrical is not my thing so unfortunately this thing might be going to a shop that does electrical. This will be the first time any of my cars will go to a shop for anything. Kinda depressing. Any other thoughts before I farm this problem out?
 
D

DAV87

Member
Apr 21, 2018
8
2
13
Danville, IN
Apr 21, 2018
#2
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #2
Me being more of an electrical savvy person, what shape are your "big 3" power cables in and I'm curious as to if your positive line is shorting out slighty somewhere between the battery and the alternator and wherever else your positive is ran to from the battery. I would say check your ground to engine block and ground to chassis connection as well but I doubt that would make a difference. I'm new to the whole working on cars stuff. But I understand completely how they work. Especially electrical.

Also I don't know if this would be happening while the engine is off, but I wonder if you have any arcing going on in your engine bay. You can check it by using a spray bottle set to mist and spraying consistently into the air space around the engine. I've not tried this before but have heard about it.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,849
10,528
203
polk county florida
Apr 21, 2018
#3
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #3
The spray bottle test works for plug wires, I don't know about battery current. Have your battery checked or you could do it your self. Charge the battery overnight, then let it set unhooked testing voltage every twelve hours or so, it should stay above twelve volts for a week,
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Apr 21, 2018
#4
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #4
Typically it is something draining the battery. Small things like glove box or courtesy lights are often the culprits. If you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm system, it is also suspect.

The ideal method is to disconnect the negative terminal, and connect a Digital Multimeter (DVM) between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable. Set the DVM on a low current scale of 2-5 amps if it doesn't auto range. Watch the current draw, and then start pulling out fuses. When you see a sudden drop in the current, that circuit is the likely culprit. Note that the computer, radio & clock will draw less than 1/10 amp to keep the settings alive.

Using the negative side prevents nasty accidents like shorting the wrench to ground while disconnecting the battery cable. Electrically, the test will work with either positive or negative battery cable.
 
D

DSB88GT

Active Member
Nov 6, 2016
175
37
38
Apr 21, 2018
#5
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #5
I had a similar issue. And as Stangnets favorite tool alluded to, it was my passenger side sun visor mirror light. The nub caused an indent in the cover and wouldn’t shut the light off when closed. I taped it permanetly off and no more issue.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
2,993
3,500
184
Mililani, Hawaii
Apr 21, 2018
#6
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #6
I did the multi meter and fuse pull, the draw was consistent no matter which fuse was pulled (I pulled them all). I don't have an aftermarket alarm, and I completely unhooked the stereo/amps with no change. I checked glove box light, it goes out, same with trunk. (If they were on the draw would have gone away when I pulled their respective fuses.)
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
2,993
3,500
184
Mililani, Hawaii
Apr 21, 2018
#7
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #7
Battery is new. I also tried swapping it for the one in my coupe, no change.
 

Dontknowchit

Active Member
Jul 31, 2017
282
89
48
Apr 21, 2018
#8
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #8
I feel your pain. Following to see what you come up with. I have a parasitic draw on my fox I can't track down.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
2,993
3,500
184
Mililani, Hawaii
Apr 21, 2018
#9
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #9
I had one on my fox before. It was the alternator.
 
Reactions: Dontknowchit

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,849
10,528
203
polk county florida
Apr 21, 2018
#10
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #10
My fox has a parasitic drain on my wallet
 
Reactions: reddragons, jrichker, Mstng93SSP and 2 others

Dontknowchit

Active Member
Jul 31, 2017
282
89
48
Apr 21, 2018
#11
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #11
karthief said:
My fox has a parasitic drain on my wallet
Click to expand...
This!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,180
17,884
224
Massachusetts
Apr 21, 2018
#12
  • Apr 21, 2018
  • #12
For this sort of troubleshooting I ended up buying a used meter on eBay. I bouht a clamp on style meter capable of reading D.C. Amperage.



It makes things easier because you can quickly clamp on various wires and measure current draw. No need to unhook wires and put in series.

I'd probably find a more useful range than the 0-40A this one has. A clamp on meter with a 0-5 or 0-10 range would be ideal
 
Reactions: Mstng93SSP

88LXSleeper

Active Member
Jan 6, 2016
146
56
48
Apr 22, 2018
#13
  • Apr 22, 2018
  • #13
Mine was the horn foam in steering wheel keeping relay energized, PO just unplugged horns.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Apr 25, 2018
#14
  • Apr 25, 2018
  • #14
Start looking for things that don't go through the fuse box. Remove the fuse links at the starter relay.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Apr 25, 2018
#15
  • Apr 25, 2018
  • #15
Mustang5L5 said:
...A clamp on meter with a 0-5 or 0-10 range would be ideal
Click to expand...
Never saw a DC clamp meter in this range because magnetic field is too weak to measure accurately. The one you show is the first one I've seen with a 0-40A range. Same manufacturer has a model with 0-4A range.

DC clamp meters work on the principle of the Hall Effect. Hall effect sensors sense the magnetic field caused by current flow which causes a small voltage across the Hall effect sensor. That voltage, which is proportional to current is then amplified and measured.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Apr 25, 2018
#16
  • Apr 25, 2018
  • #16
start pulling fuses one at a time ..see if you continue to get voltage drop at the battery... then start pulling wires off the starter solenoid one at a time.....
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,180
17,884
224
Massachusetts
Apr 25, 2018
#17
  • Apr 25, 2018
  • #17
Blown88GT said:
Never saw a DC clamp meter in this range because magnetic field is too weak to measure accurately. The one you show is the first one I've seen with a 0-40A range. Same manufacturer has a model with 0-4A range.
Click to expand...

I assume you mean this model?


I wonder how accurate it is at 4amp. I feel that range would be better suited for this sort of troubleshooting. I might keep my eye out for a cheap used one. The 0-40a was nice at getting some ballpark info on actual current draw of various e fans and such.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Apr 26, 2018
#18
  • Apr 26, 2018
  • #18
Mustang5L5 said:
I assume you mean this model?


I wonder how accurate it is at 4amp. I feel that range would be better suited for this sort of troubleshooting. I might keep my eye out for a cheap used one. The 0-40a was nice at getting some ballpark info on actual current draw of various e fans and such.
Click to expand...
I was going to buy one of those but Amazon reviews are terrible. Many had to return them., some fell apart upon first use.

I've had this one for 15 years. It measures down to 1.0 A.
I originally bought it to test the Mark VIII fan. Win no soft start it was 105A starting, 42A running. The DCC PWM controller is 65A starting,
I just used it a few days ago to determine the parasitic loss on a Corvette. It flashed between 0.9 & 1.0.
In the past I used it on a 3000VAC motor to determine AC current draw. Didn't dare touch it while the motor was energized.
https://www.testproductsintl.com/clamp-meters-current/296-clamp-meter-amp-plus/
I use the Fluke 87-V for everything else.
 
Last edited: Apr 26, 2018

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
2,993
3,500
184
Mililani, Hawaii
Apr 27, 2018
#19
  • Apr 27, 2018
  • #19
mikestang63 said:
start pulling fuses one at a time ..see if you continue to get voltage drop at the battery... then start pulling wires off the starter solenoid one at a time.....
Click to expand...

Yep, I did all that and the draw was still there.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,180
17,884
224
Massachusetts
Apr 27, 2018
#20
  • Apr 27, 2018
  • #20
I believe power windows draws directly from the solenoid through a circuit breaker. You might want to isolate the wires on the solenoids and do a current test on the individually and see if you find a draw on anything there.
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
C4 trans help needed
  • CPH89LX
  • Apr 26, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
6
Views
138
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Apr 28, 2026
CPH89LX
C
L
Help with 1986 GT 5 Speed Please
  • Lcasada1999
  • Mar 20, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
7
Views
199
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Yesterday at 2:09 PM
CAMTWO1070
Drivetrain 83’ Glx convertible C5 Trans help!
  • JacksonJared2113
  • Dec 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
335
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 26, 2025
JacksonJared2113
F
Spark Plugs Caused Rough Idle & Driving
  • firevert
  • Sep 1, 2025
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Replies
3
Views
361
2005 - 2009 Specific Tech Sep 3, 2025
Noobz347
A
Resolved 03 GT Parasitic Draw Fuse 26 (PCM)
  • Antrix
  • Mar 22, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
660
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Mar 24, 2025
89ripper
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?