electrical help needed please!!!!

[cjones]

i doubt it's a ground issue because the hazard lights work and the circuit's only grounds are at the light bulbs.

if you don't have power at the flasher unit, then there is an open wire between the flasher unit and the fuse.

power from the fuse would be on the Pink/Orange wire at the flasher

 

[skunk21]

thanks again you have been a great help. I'll try and some find it, do you think if I open the harness and follow that wire that will lead to the break, do you think the failure us under the dash? I also have seen the repair harness for the switch is that a good idea also?

also if I put the jumper wire into the flasher what is that going to do and what should be the result, i'm going to try that later.

 

[cjones]

thanks again you have been a great help. I'll try and some find it, do you think if I open the harness and follow that wire that will lead to the break, do you think the failure us under the dash? I also have seen the repair harness for the switch is that a good idea also?

also if I put the jumper wire into the flasher what is that going to do and what should be the result, i'm going to try that later.

first we need to get power to the flasher unit. try piercing the wire (P/O) with a test light just after the fuse and then just before the flasher to make sure the connections between the wire and connectors aren't bad.


by putting a jumper wire into the flasher, you will have continuous power through the rest of the circuit which makes it easier to test the circuit. the turn signals would stay on continuously(not flash)

i haven't seen a repair harness for turn signals but if you have a break in the P/O wire inside the harness it might be a good idea so you don't have to open up the harness to repair the wire.

 

[hbracing]

duh yea i guess if it were a grounding issue the hazards wouldnt work.hey whats the chance you got a bad new turn signal flasher?pop it out and put it in place of you hazards and see if they work

 

[cjones]

duh yea i guess if it were a grounding issue the hazards wouldnt work.hey whats the chance you got a bad new turn signal flasher?pop it out and put it in place of you hazards and see if they work

i think he tried that already

 

[skunk21]

yeah done that already nothing. cjones I'll do the test tomorrow, i'll let you know what I find. thanks buddy.

 

[hbracing]

hey just got home from work and installed and a new flasher in the turnsignals and pow turn signals, sorry yours couldnt be that simple.did you replace the flasher before or after you discovered the reverse light wires?recheck your fuses again maybe you popped one

 

[skunk21]

I have power to the flasher now that is confirmed. I deleted the rest of my post because I checked the wrong freaken wires. I'm starting over. the wires to the blinker which I now know are on the top of the switch don't have pink/orange, like the flasher. I'll be back. i'm getting ticked.

 

[skunk21]

I finally found it!!

okay I found the problem need help to fix it. I have no power to the plug to the switch. there are two wires going into the switch both orange/blue i traced one of then=m to the hazard switch and when I turn the hazards on the test light blinks at the multi switch. the other orange wire is dead. that has to be the problem I would hope right no constant power feeding in. how to i by pass this wire and feed power in.

I tried following the wire into the harness but man that thing is wrapped up in the dash, can I run a wire to jump over this one fro ma different location maybe to feed it?

 

[skunk21]

forget about it, don't bother going that route. i used a jumper wire to feed power to the dead wire, it put life into the switch but the hazards wouldn't work until I took off the jumper and blinker arrows on the dash would go out if I put the directionals on, so you can't take it out of the loop.

so now it looks like taking the dash apart to get at the harness working from the hazard plug back to find the break hopefully. the harness wrapping is still tight how the hell would the power wire break? should I not attempt opening this up and send it out or go for it?

 

[cjones]

i sent a reply from your PM. to me

please run through the ohms check i stated on the pm and in a previous post... that will verify if a part or a wire is bad.

when you do the multifunction swt test make sure to turn the turn signal on(forgot to include that step in PM).

if you don't have power from turn signal flasher to hazard swt then you should be able to splice a wire at the flasher (LB) and run it to the hazard swt and splice into the (LB) there. that would save you from having to open the wiring harness.

 

[skunk21]

cjones was nice enoigh to call, we walked through it and did find out that I do have power to my multi switch and everything is working the way it should pointing to the new mulit switch I bought at advance auto is bad.

thanks again cjones for your help.

 

[hbracing]

you know its nice when you can to to a site and find someone who will actually take out time to help and not be a jerk about it.so many of the sites you go on alot of them are really asses.sorry i didnt have more time to help more.

 

[jrichker]

A word of caution about multifunction switches is in order here. The multifunction switch (high/low beam, wiper, turn signals) are different for different years. 87-98 will work in any 87-89 car. The 90-93 switches only work in 90-93 cars. You can't put an early model switch in a late model car, nor can you put a late model switch in an early car.

Supposedly you can move the pins around to make the switches work in model years that are different from the car the switch came out of. I cannot verify that and haven’t tried it .

 

[cjones]

here's the connector view:

 

[cjones]

everyone:

i checked the connector view after a message i received against a 1988 switch and they are the same in the program. the lazy people at mitchel on demand didn't check for differences and just used one chart for all years. (no wonder i always used Alldata)

i don't have an accurate connector view of the true 90-93 switch.

they have different part #'s so there is a difference, mitchell just doesn't show it.

 

[TomT_90GT]

CJones - in a post on 6/11/07, you mentioned:
"does the blower motor work?? it feeds off the same wire as fuse #5 from the ignition."

I had a strange problem today where my turn signals and blower motor quit. The manual says these are controlled by fuses #5 and #9 respectively. You mentioned #5 as also coming into play for the blower motor. I checked both fuses and they were fine. Just before getting to work, I used the power window switch to put the windows up, and all of a sudden the blower motor started up again, and when I checked, the turn signals were working again. Any idea what these circuits might have in common? At least I THINK it was the power window switch activation that restored functionality...either that or the bumpy road I was on jiggled something. Thanks.

 

[Saleen0679]

Usually in cases where multiple circuits are intermittently affected at the same time the ignition switch is a main suspect. A wacky blower is one of the symptoms.

Next time one of the accessories fails try jiggling the ignition lock cylinder with the key in and see if power is restored. If that is the case you will have to remove the steering column covers and visually inspect the electrical connection to the switch for backed out wires or switch separation.

 

[TomT_90GT]

Thanks Saleen --

Good advice. Turn signals/blower were "OFF" again on my drive home, then later on that evening when I started the car up again, they were "ON". This morning, of course, "OFF" again. On the way in, I thought to jiggle the ignition keys and hit under the steering column and things started up. After reading your message, that kind of points the finger at exactly what you said might be the likely cause.
I probably won't get to it until this weekend, but I'll post a reply as to what I find.

If there aren't any loose wires, etc, do you think having the ignition block changed out might be the next most likely suggestion?

Thanks again.

---Tom

 

[Saleen0679]

Hopefully things will be obvious with a visual inspection. Ignition switches have a bad habit of coming apart or wires working loose. Given your problems I would change it out.

There was a recall on ignition switches. You might want to call a Ford dealer first and find out if the Ignition switch recall fix has been performed on your car. Maybe you can still get a free fix. If you want to do if yourself it's an easy job and the part is only about $20. The only special tool is a tamper-proof Torx bit. Instruction can be found HERE.