Electrical help needed.

seijirou

Founding Member
Aug 15, 2002
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to all the 87 - 93 people... If there is any chance someone could check this out for me I would really appreciate it. By the driver's side front shock tower there are 2 plugs. A big one with 8 wires in and out. And a small one with 3 wires in and 2 wires out. Atleast this is the case with this 87 GT. In the big plug there is one wire that is red with a yellow stripe that is hot when you turn on the ignition. In the small plug there is a light blue wire.

Does anybody know what these wires do/go to? Any chance someone could poke around maybe? I would be forever thankfull.

Oh also when I try to start my car nothing seems to happen. Also the starter doesn't appear to respond when you bridge the starter solenoid by the shock tower.
Thanks.

~S
 
Here's a checklist:

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check the battery. Most auto parts stores will do a free battery check if you bring them the battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Put the car's transmission in neutral or has someone press in on the clutch. Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) .) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif for a very good diagram of the starter & neutral safety switch wiring

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring are good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid. If jumpering the two big solenoid posts made the starter crank, the logical next step is to replace the starter solenoid (also known as the starter relay).

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. If the starter fails the test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 
Awesome thanks for the reply. Turned out it was a bad ground between the engine and the frame, since my battery is now in my trunk.

But now I have a really odd problem. Once I got it started up it ran fine, then I go to put it into reverse and as soon as I begin to push the trans into reverse the car dies. Back into neutral, try to start it up, it'll start, but won't idle on it's own, if you give it a little bit of gas it'll run but it sputters and spits and sounds like a damn Harley. If you floor it it'll rev up fine however. Tried putting it back into reverse and nothng changed, so going into reverse the first time caused whatever this problem is.
When you turn the ignition on you can hear the fuel pump priming, while the igntion is on if you put it into reverse the pump will prime again as if i turned the key off and on again.
This happened in the evenng so I didn't have any daylight left to look at stuff, but I've got no ideas on what is up right now. Anybody else have any clue what this could possibly be?
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .
 
Okay so, I tried to pull codes, but it's not working. I think the computer is fried. When you do the hookup, and then turn on the ignition, there is about a 3-6 second pause before the test light comes on. But then it just stays on solid. I double checked all the hookups, and their right, I've never seen one do this before. I guess when I threw it into reverse that first time it sent 12 volts somewhere it's not supposed to go and let the factory smoke out. I hope it's just the computer and I don't have to track down wires.
 
Now my question is... The harness that plugs into the transmission, i've got the one from the 87, but the plugs on the transmission don't work with the 87 harness' plugs. Does anybody have a diagram for this thing, an 86 trans and the 87 tranny harness? Or a method figuring out what is what on the trans and what is what on the harness? I don't want to try taking any guesses, as crossed wires is what fried my computer in the first place.
 
An update, if anybody cares, I was finally able to get the wiring cross sorted. Now I can start the car with the key and have even sucessfully gone in reverse without toasting the computer, and the reverse lights even work.