For those of you who have to go though emmissions such as I do, let's all have a collective "F&$% EMMISSIONS!!!!!" Here's the deal. I have had the car sitting for about 2-3 months as I was fixing some clutch/trans problems. I got them all fixed and after the trans was in I put my cats back on as I had to get tested by the Nov 7th. The car wouldnt pass last time and I need to replace the o2 sensors. So, I have new sensors and thought this time there shouldn't be a problem. Well failed again. The NOX and I forgot the other one. The guy said it could have been the fact that it has been sitting for months and I literally tried testing it the day after I got it back on the road. The other guy said that if I had driven it atleast 30 miles (probably a total of 60) that it shouldn't be a factor. So, have my cats gone bad? I don't hear an exhaust leak, but I know that my header bolts are starting to back out (I just noticed them, how the hell can I get in there and tighten them). So, does anyone have an idea why I am failing or what I should look into? I will try to post the results of what I failed and all if that would shed some light onto it. Any help would be great. Thanks guys.
Emmissions failing. WHY?!?!?!
- Thread starter AdamFogle
- Start date
well you sound like you said it yourself if the header bolts are backing off, I got to mine with some long extensions.
I had an exhaust leak when I put new ford racing headers on my car to my old H-pipe. Tightened them over and over, even when it was running and HOT HOT HOT. That helped some.
In the end, I fixed it with a stainless steel sleeve, it was machined to the 'ball' of the header, and very thin, so i put it in between the header and the pipe and bolted it up, no leak since!
I had an exhaust leak when I put new ford racing headers on my car to my old H-pipe. Tightened them over and over, even when it was running and HOT HOT HOT. That helped some.
In the end, I fixed it with a stainless steel sleeve, it was machined to the 'ball' of the header, and very thin, so i put it in between the header and the pipe and bolted it up, no leak since!
AdamFogle said:
Have you drien the car much since getting it back together? The system needs to run through a sequence of operations before the computer will acknowledge a code clearing service (new O2 sensors for example), unless the code is cleared manually by a Ford Tech or mechanic (if he knows what he's doing).
DTT92LX
New Member
Yeah, You should clear the computer by disconnecting the battery for a while (30+mins). Then run it a few times for some distance and pull the codes. No doubt you'll get something regarding the thermactor (smog) system or o2s or something that will point you in the right direction.
I really have not run it a lot since I got it back together. I think I had 60 miles on it when I went to get it tested. That was Tuesday, so now I probably have around 150. Do you suggest I disconnet that battery like one of you said for a little while and then run it for a bit and check codes? I don't have a code reader yet so I'll go out and get one. To use the code reader, is it pretty self-explanitory? I have never used one before. Also, will code reader come with the codes or is it listed online somewhere? I really appreciate all help. Thanks. I have been dying with the "5.0" out of commission for so long. I like my 94 GT, but I am freakin in love with my LX and can't wait till she's going strong again (and passing emissions tests
)
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
To reset the computer you only have to disconnect the battery for 1 minute or so not 30 minutes. Atleast every car (including my mustang) that I have attepted this on worked. Or you can get a dignostic and just clear the codes that way but thats only if you have access to one or the money to buy one (hey are like 2 grand).
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