engine block ?

[dkbanjo]

Hello, I just wanted to run my new engine combo buy you guys and see If the factory block can handle it, the dart blocks are really expensive.
331 rotating assembly 9.1-1 comp
185cc AFR's
holly systemax
lunati voodoo part# 61011 .549 in .565 ex
vortech v-1 9 psi @ 6000
3000 stall converter
roller rockers

Any suggestions would be great like lifter valley girdle, less boost..
Thank you much

 

[strtrcr50]

Hello, I just wanted to run my new engine combo buy you guys and see If the factory block can handle it, the dart blocks are really expensive.
331 rotating assembly 9.1-1 comp
185cc AFR's
holly systemax
lunati voodoo part# 61011 .549 in .565 ex
vortech v-1 9 psi @ 6000
3000 stall converter
roller rockers

Any suggestions would be great like lifter valley girdle, less boost..
Thank you much

Lifter valley girdles are useless. And, yes, you will be in the block splitting territory. I am of the opinion that RPM's kill the block much faster and easier than a horsepower rating though. I'm going to be taking the same chance. 306, twisted wedges, gt40 intake, comp 284hr, vortech v-1 s trim 12-14 psi. I have every intention of staying under 6000 rpms, and if it splits, well then I have to explain to the wife why I need a real block.
I might consider a main girdle if I were you. Not because it will save the block, but it might save the bottom end if the block does let go.

 

[d.r.moss]

I have been holding off on building a motor because of time and money restraints. I'm still in college, for the last 8 years but i have done alot of research myself. I have a Paxton with 8-10lbs on mostly a stock motor. From what I understand a stock block will hold up to about 500hp, then they tend to split up the center. However, that depends on how you drive it. Me, I ride bikes all summer and f*** around in the mustang to try to pull some a** every now and then but I dont drive it much. I take it up to the strip maybe once a year, but mostly just putting around town, for now anyway. With that said, I was going to save my money and stay with the stock block and hope for the best. So depending on your driving style, you may want to either stay away from the high hp or buy a better block. I dont think girdles are going to save your block, they may just give you false hope. Different year blocks are stronger also, not sure which are the best. A buddy of mine built a bada** bronco, lifted with 38s maybe? with a 302 block, naturally aspirated. He expected it to have around 450hp??? He split it up the center running over a late 80s camaro!!! It was toast after that!! He beats the s*** out of everything he owns though. Now I hear he is working on a 351M. I have also talked to a guy with a cobra kit car with a supercharged 302, out of a fox donor, that he had Alternative Performance in Michigan build his motor and dyno it. It dyno'd well over 500hp. It runs great but he is a 50 year old man that just drives it to and from car shows. The motor is probably four years old now and Alternative builds good motors, but they are not cheap. I got some pointers from them when I was looking into it. The owner gave me a good combo setup for my supercharger, but he told me it would crack the block. I can relay that combo back to you if you want to know it, but you will probably crack your stock block How do I put pictures up for my signature and by my name????

 

[dkbanjo]

I plan on shifting at 6000 or 6100. So your thinking of a main girdle. Maybe I should run less boost.

 

[clement]

what you will need is a stronger block. if you tell us what you already have we can probably recommend a combination that will be more reliable, run the times you are looking for and will fit within your budget; but to do this we will need to know all these things.

 

[dkbanjo]

I do not have anything yet except the intake and s/c with 5psi and 9 psi pully . The afrs I can get a good deal on. Maybe I wont
stroke it, just a new 302 forged rotating assembly. But let me know what you think

 

[clement]

the stroke wont matter, if the thing makes anywhere in the ballpark of what it should make itll crack the block. youd be better off spending the money buying a dart shp block with whatever rotating assembly you want to put in it and put stock heads on it until you can save up for a decent set of heads. there is no reason to waste money on a shortblock that you are just going to have to trash.

 

[dkbanjo]

Your right I'm afraid to say, do you know where a good place to purchase one in LA is or will I have to mail order it to get a decent price. I was originally going to get a short block from M&R in glendale because there right around the corner but I don't think they offer a different block than stock.

 

[clement]

i trust 2 builders. my local guy who builds 200K promod motors and on the side does some stuff for us low buck locals he likes, and Jim Woods at fordstrokers.com. Jim is running a little behind right now, but give him a call. itll be worth the wait.

 

[dkbanjo]

I checked out fordstrokers.com they have the liberator blocks but those are factory blocks correct, so I would bring them a dart bare block. Maybe I should go n/a.

 

[nunly94gt]

Save up, get the dart block, it will be better in the long run. Especially if you ever want more boost.
We all do it, get a car built with what we want in it, but its never enough, you have to go faster and faster. Becareful with what you do, it may end up biting you in the a** in the end.

 

[clement]

I checked out fordstrokers.com they have the liberator blocks but those are factory blocks correct, so I would bring them a dart bare block. Maybe I should go n/a.

call him. he will build you one with an aftermarket block, thats not a problem.

 

[90lxcoupe]

it seems like turbos make more power safely when it come to cracking blocks, you should look into that if you cant pony up for the dart block... or grab a mexican block somehwere

 

[S&B]

If your doing it piece by piece start backward and work forward.

Every idiot (including me) does it this way :

DUmp money into engine /blower then you need to do a trans so you hurry and buy it, then you need a killer clutch, cooling system, eng. mang, etc
then you blow up something, like your rear end(ouch), so you need to upgrade that, all the time you can never drive the car b/c something is f'ed up and to fix it right you need money so you wait and wait. and get pissed at your project.

If your smart you listen to me and start backwards, you get a 5 lug conversion and buid up the rear with something that wont break under 500hp at full load. then you will get a trans, and finnally the motor. You can always run your stock setup with the blower for a bit more power untill your ready.

A good dart SB rotating assm will run you 4-7k its not a set of headers

 

[dkbanjo]

I talked to a few people and one guy suggested a boss 302 with all forged internals and H beams for 4k .Would that be over kill? considering I will shift at 6k. Plus i don't think my intake will fit. Aren't they different? There goes my budget build LOL!!


By the way my car is already on the fritz (the sound of metal bouncing around and violent shaking). I guess the holly systemax, v1 with 9psi, and exhaust was to much
for a 18 year old motor.