Engine 302 production block selection

[AeroCoupe]

I did some more research (lots of reading( and came across a post on the Corral by FordStrokers lining this out.

If you want to run a roller cam designed for a roller block in a non-roller block then you need link-bar lifters and you are done.

If you want to run standard roller lifters then you will need a reduced base circle cam, drill and tap the block for the spider to hold the dog bones. The holes that you will drill and tap are right over the #2 & #4 cam bearings so they will have to be removed and replaced to do this.

Hope that helps and I learned something in the process.

 

[Bullitt347]

It is all about prep work/rpm/tune.
I built a stock 302 block (1978 I think) for a guy that was going drag racing. (circa 1996 or so) we had the block/crank/rods Cryogenic Frozen and then used a main girdle and all ARP hardware. Solid roller set up
It was a 7,200 rpm engine on Nitrous.
At 3,100 lbs the car went mid 10's.
After 2 seasons it broke.
Got the tune wrong on the Nitrous and blew most of 2 pistons out the exhaust in the form of aluminum dust.
One rod/pin went through the cylinder wall.
The crank was OK, but the Mains were showing a bit of cap walk. Bearing still looked good.
I am sure that the engine would have lasted another year or so if the Nitrous tune had stayed safe.
Then we built a new engine with a Ford Racing Block. Went low 9's with that one.
I will repeat "It's all about prep work/rpm/tune.

 

[FastDriver]

That is helpful. Thank you.

There's a beat up '71 Econoline near me. I suppose there's a chance it could have a mexican block. Think I'll go check it out.

 

[General karthief]

Old skool was a Mexican block, 69 302 4brl heads, link bar roller lifter (only thing you could get back then). Some went to 351 heads but most really fast guy's went 351 and Cleveland heads with a solid roller link bar lifter.
Again link bar rollers were all you could get for a SBF.
Or any engine made in 'Merica for that matter.
Never heard of needing small base circle cam with link bar lifters in early blocks till
I read the same thing Aerocoupe did when I researched this years ago.

 

[rednotch]

There's a few guys in my area that do the stock block thing, either late model or early blocks... Biggest issue is tune... Second secret is their potato chip cars. They are gutted beyond gutted, 2400lb range.

 

[FastDriver]

A 289 HiPo apparently has a code on the front on the passenger side of the block, just above the oil pan rail that will start with "6R09K". It can be connected to the VIN of the car it came out of and SAAC can assist in tmgetting the vehicle that it came from.


View: https://youtu.be/cZHPkt6JbH4?si=9mXNA0LznbXggSZB

 

[FastDriver]

I did some more research (lots of reading( and came across a post on the Corral by FordStrokers lining this out.

If you want to run a roller cam designed for a roller block in a non-roller block then you need link-bar lifters and you are done.

If you want to run standard roller lifters then you will need a reduced base circle cam, drill and tap the block for the spider to hold the dog bones. The holes that you will drill and tap are right over the #2 & #4 cam bearings so they will have to be removed and replaced to do this.

Hope that helps and I learned something in the process.

Spoke with Ed, this mornin'. He confirmed. Link bars are enough. He cautioned not to ever indulge in using a small base circle cam, no matter what. That's good enough for me.

 

[Noobz347]

Now all you gotta do is a build a car that will take you back to 1985. You will need a stainless steel body to dissipate the flux from a 1.21 Gigawatt nuclear reaction.

Then you can pickup all the Mexican blocks. They're just laying around holding up mailboxes and flower pots.

 

[FastDriver]

Posted a WTB ad. Got this response:

If one could take things at face value, is this a fair deal? What should I ask for/expect in terms of documentation? Am I just asking for trouble doing anything long distance?

 

[Noobz347]

SBF SHP Engine Block- 302 | 31374275 | Dart Machinery

Dart SBF 302 SHP Engine Block; High Performance, Ultimate Strength

www.dartheads.com

 

[Bullitt347]

IDK,
Looks sketchy.
Carlos Mendes selling a Mexican Block.
What are the chances...

 

[Noobz347]

Perhaps he's making them in his basement. Cops can't touch him. He's a Mexican making Mexican blocks.

 

[limp]

What about his Seester.....

 

[Noobz347]

Some basic weights from another thread:

"Disclaimer"

This scale is suspect

Dart 302 SHP 4.125 167lbs
Dart 302 Aluminum 4.125 95lbs
Dart 302 Sportsman 4.00 185lbs
Dart 351 Sportsman 4.125 220lbs
302 Roller 120lbs
351 Roller 165lbs

 

[Bullitt347]

Some basic weights from another thread:

"Disclaimer"

This scale is suspect

Dart 302 SHP 4.125 167lbs
Dart 302 Aluminum 4.125 95lbs
Dart 302 Sportsman 4.00 185lbs
Dart 351 Sportsman 4.125 220lbs
302 Roller 120lbs
351 Roller 165lbs

Sounds about right.
When I bought my Dart Iron Eagle 8.2" deck block, I believe it weighed right around the 185lb area.

 

[FastDriver]

I found one I think might work. $400 for the bare block. More in Black Jack's thread...

 

[FastDriver]

I opened this ad up and while I was mulling it over, it sold:

So, taken at his word, it's already bored .060 over. I've read from Woody that OTS pistons mostly jump from about .060 up to .125, which you could take this out to. Hard to say if that damage is deeper, but even if so, they say it can be sleeved without issue. I don't know what all of that costs, but it's cool to see such a rare block out there as a possibility.

 

[limp]

I think your lucky someone else bought this worn out pos instead of you.... Junk is Junk

 

[Noobz347]

Keep an eye out for this to return to stock:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-500.html?q=1.21g

 

[FastDriver]

I think your lucky someone else bought this worn out pos instead of you.... Junk is Junk

Don't think that's fixable with just a 4.125 bore? What would you look for in these ads to determine whether a block is junk, or not? I'm taking my chances on the mexican block, because it apparently still has a standard 4" bore. So, there's plenty of material to take out. But, I have read rust ruins a block. So, I can't say whether I made a good decision. I guess for me it's just a 'takes my chances' kind of thing.