engine codes bucking, popping please help!

Lately my car has been bucking and slightly backfiring...i have timing at 14 so i know thats no the issue...it started about a week ago after i calmed my idle down by loosening my idle set screw but ive played with it before and it never caused any issues. Ive swapped iac valves and changed the egr gasket since it was suspect my codes are key on engine off 67 81 85 84 and key on engine on are 41 91 33....i had the thermactor valve and egr codes previous to this problem so i dont think its relevant but you tell me... my o2 sensors are bosch and only about a year old...unsure of fuel pressure and dont have a tester and no schrader valve on the fuel rail or i would test it with a tire pressure guage since i dont have a tester but it is adjustable fuel pressure regulator....enough rambling please help!
 
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Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

Code 41 is a RH side sensor,
Code 91 is the LH side sensor.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness.

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
A secondary problem with only a code 41 is for cars with an intact smog pump and cats. If the tube on the back of the heads clogs up the driver’s side, all the air from the smog pump gets dumped into one side. This excess air upsets the O2 sensor calibration and can set a false code 41. The cure is to remove the crossover tube and thoroughly clean the insides so that there is no carbon blocking the free flow of air to both heads.
 
i have smog parts but no cats...and i SWEAR recently theres more exhaust pressure on the passenger side than the drivers...can i just remove that bar and plug the holes? but keep the smog pump intact? Also does anyone have a vacuum diagram simplified...
 
Get out your analog voltmeter and measure the O2 sensor output voltages at the computer. You may have wiring problems.

Also make sure the O2 sensor heater ground is grounded to the head or intake manifold bolts. It is an orange wire that comes out under the throttle body.

Be aware that the proper O2 sensors for 5.0 cars have 3 wires. The 4 cylinder O2 sensors will physically fit, but have 4 wires. The fourth wire is the signal ground and mates up to the wrong place in the O2 sensor wiring harness socket.
 
sorry for the confusion but do i measure the ouput voltage with the car running? So just probe the wire with a pin or something and see what they read with it running?

You got it...


Have the engine idling and warmed up. Be careful not to stick yourself with the pin in the process...
 
I figured it out! the wires rubbed against the firewall at some point where the eec harness goes through the firewall on the passenger side and were completely cut! Soldered and heat shrunk and the beast breathes again...thank to all that helped i wouldnt have my car without this website...you guys rock...keep it up!!!