Engine Cuts out when warm.

94Blue302GT · Apr 6, 2006

Started car recently and it purrs like a kitten. Except when it warms up.
The Fan doesn't run.
Engine cuts when it runs after about 3-4 minutes.
Green Vac. line disconnected
White Vac. line disconnected
Smog delete
A/C delete
ProFlow 42lb MAF
39lb Fuel injectors
P60-1hifi and "accessories"
Huge radiator with stock fan

I think it might be the temperature sensor. How can i test this?
Does anyone have any other ideas?

94GT347 · Apr 6, 2006

94Blue302GT said:
Does anyone have any other ideas?

A carburetor makes it go away like - snap-

J/K, good luck getting it sorted out.

mo_dingo · Apr 6, 2006

94Blue302GT said:
Started car recently and it purrs like a kitten. Except when it warms up.
The Fan doesn't run.
Engine cuts when it runs after about 3-4 minutes.
Green Vac. line disconnected
White Vac. line disconnected
Smog delete
A/C delete
ProFlow 42lb MAF
39lb Fuel injectors
P60-1hifi and "accessories"
Huge radiator with stock fan

I think it might be the temperature sensor. How can i test this?
Does anyone have any other ideas?

Sounds like you have an oxygen sensor problem, a TFI or a PIP sensor problem. Both are related to heat. Can't tell you which, but you can test them.

After the 3-4 minutes interval, is the motor warm yet? Is it as soon as the motor gets to operating temp and coolant starts flowing? That might be a HG problem. You aren't losing coolant right?

The maf/iat/ect aren't your problem.

HISSIN50 · Apr 6, 2006

Did you retrieve the codes?

Can you tell anything from DL'ing, etc? That's a fairly involved set-up so it could be mods-related.

Good luck.

94Blue302GT · Apr 10, 2006

no o2's on the car. They only help it learn anyways. I was thinking the temp sensor because it would cause it to run rich, which it smells to be doing. My temp gauge moves, but i think that the computer actually recieves the info from the other sensor on the pass. side of the car. Also, the intake is, ummm, modified... So my other idea is that the computer is using the wrong intake volume.
No codes, well, at least no check engine light.
Is there a way to test the actual temp. sensor?
There is a LITTLE froth in the motor, but i also basically just put it back together and tried to spray everything clean. I"ll give it an oil change and see if i get that again.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=604324
has some pics of my intake if you'd like to see. I didn't know how to reuse those pics in other posts. If i kick the idle up to about 1000 it runs fine, but it still doesn't kick on the fan like it should, makeing me think that it's not reading into the computer correctly, and like i said, it smells rich, which is odd due to the injector/maf setup i have.
Oh, and if it means anything, i couldn't start the car with the key a while back, so i wired in a button.

mo_dingo · Apr 10, 2006

94Blue302GT said:
no o2's on the car. They only help it learn anyways. I was thinking the temp sensor because it would cause it to run rich, which it smells to be doing. My temp gauge moves, but i think that the computer actually recieves the info from the other sensor on the pass. side of the car. Also, the intake is, ummm, modified... So my other idea is that the computer is using the wrong intake volume.
No codes, well, at least no check engine light.
Is there a way to test the actual temp. sensor?
There is a LITTLE froth in the motor, but i also basically just put it back together and tried to spray everything clean. I"ll give it an oil change and see if i get that again.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=604324
has some pics of my intake if you'd like to see. I didn't know how to reuse those pics in other posts. If i kick the idle up to about 1000 it runs fine, but it still doesn't kick on the fan like it should, makeing me think that it's not reading into the computer correctly, and like i said, it smells rich, which is odd due to the injector/maf setup i have.
Oh, and if it means anything, i couldn't start the car with the key a while back, so i wired in a button.

Let me get this straight. You do not have any oxygen sensors??? How the hell are you doing that???? They change your a/f ratio in CL operation and I don't see how the heck you just aren't running them.

Maybe you need a new tune? Since you have yanked your O2's, this modifying your car so much, I can't help you at all.
Scott

94Blue302GT · Apr 11, 2006

o2's only help the engine with it's "learning curve" Without the O2's it will omit them with an open loop, thus using the current information from the MAF and temp sensor to figure out how much fuel to give. After that, it'll just do what it does, it won't correct it for lean/rich. That's what my AFPR is for.
Don't tell me it won't work, my buddy has my other wrecked car's 94 fuel injection on a 351 cleveland and it run's like a champ with no O2's.
That being said, the temp sensor is a major thing for the car to run right.

mo_dingo · Apr 12, 2006

94Blue302GT said:
o2's only help the engine with it's "learning curve" Without the O2's it will omit them with an open loop, thus using the current information from the MAF and temp sensor to figure out how much fuel to give. After that, it'll just do what it does, it won't correct it for lean/rich. That's what my AFPR is for.
Don't tell me it won't work, my buddy has my other wrecked car's 94 fuel injection on a 351 cleveland and it run's like a champ with no O2's.
That being said, the temp sensor is a major thing for the car to run right.

The O2's control your a/f ratio after the first 120 seconds of run time. The computer trims/adds fuel solely based upon the values received from the o2 sensors in CL. So I would say that they are much more important than "just for the learning curve"

I won't tell you that it won't work. I will tell you that 99.9% of the people on here run O2's. I only know the system when the O2's are operational and running. I know the system as it was engineered by Ford, and since you have modified the system, you have to take a completely different approach.

Why isn't your MIL on 24/7? Without the O2's I would think this would be the case. And are you sure that if the O2's are disconnected, that it just reverts to OL instead of running off of the KAM?

Maybe you should try some simple stuff like a CBT and cleaning the maf & IAT, checking the injectors w/ noid light, spark plug color/condition etc. since you are running it like a carbed motor.
Scott

94Blue302GT · Apr 12, 2006

Ok, so if i ran an o2, can i get away with a single one and split the wire both ways? I have a turbo, like i said, so it's single exhaust.

Engine Cuts out when warm.

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