Engine Engine cuts out

Hi,
Does this occur warm or cold (open or closed loop) or driving normally at any RPM, or moreso when you’re pushing the car under a load, e.g. right foot planted?
Seem like a single cylinder is dropping out for a quick second or does the entire ignition seem to stumble entirely?
TFI OEM or aftermarket?
Take a peek into your Dizzy for moisture & blast it clean, inspect the Cap and Rotor carefully for cracks.
KOEO Voltage to the coil, then KOER.
Aside from what pulling EEC codes may tell you, vague responses are
Please include further detail, it’ll help eliminate vague responses.
How frequently does this occur, did it occur once, then more frequent over time? Or just one day it just began and remains the same?
A simple start is looming up your plug wires, reasonably separating from each other and any grounds.
Fire it up at night and look for stray arc’s.
Check your most recent ignition connections and those around them.
As you may realize, MSD and other aftermarket ignition components sometimes don’t bode so well and are many times the source of issues like yours. Can you bypass the MSD box temporarily?
Pull your plugs and see what they tell you.
Blast your MAF with CRC.
Fuel pressure at the rail
Grounds all solid.
Good luck!
John

If it starts cutting out for more than a sec or so stop driving it, unless you wanna risk blowing up your mufflers.

Scott7512 said:

Would a fuel pump cause the cutting out for a split second?
I ask this now because I changed the throttle body a few days ago and had trouble starting. It would just crank. I had my son look at the fuel pressure gauge and there was none. I kept trying and then it started working. I decided to change the pump since I did not know it’s history. Found out it was a whalbro 190lph. I ordered a whalbro 155lph and changed it. Car just has HCI and 24lb injectors. Only started a few times since but no problems.

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Hi,
Hope that was it, If there was a fuel pump issue, it certainly may cause the engine not to run, especially if the pump was on its way to total failure. If future problems occur, I’d be looking at the MSD box, they don’t do well in these cars- take it out of the loop, also check the wiring and relays, connections that run the pump. The charging system and battery should also be considered, below 12VDC, the EEC will not fire the plugs or injectors. The PIP in the Dizzy is another possibility should the problem reoccur, just to keep in mind
Good luck!
John

Scott7512 said:

Recently the engine cuts out for a second and then comes back on.
This happens randomly. It has never completely died. It has a msd box, newer coil and tfi module. Also has a Bama chip connected to the computer. The only thing not replaced in the last 2 years is the factory distributor.
Any ideas?

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Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

Look for codes 14 ignition PIP sensor erratic and 87, and 98, which are fuel pump power related codes.

Does the radio or wipers stop at the same time as the engine skip? If, so replace the ignition switch.

The MSD components have a bad reputation for reliability, especially the MSD box.
If you have the old parts and they were working when you took them off, put them back on one part at a time.