Says I can have for FREE the pistons are 60 over so would need to buy a set....
Going to look for pricing on 2 rods and a piston set. Balancer and flywheel.
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Engine Is DOA- New build- measuring for zero deck?
- Thread starter a91what
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Says I can have for FREE the pistons are 60 over so would need to buy a set....
Going to look for pricing on 2 rods and a piston set. Balancer and flywheel.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
for free is always nice
not a fan of 60 over on these blocks....they are thin wall and that often leads to overheating
not a fan of 60 over on these blocks....they are thin wall and that often leads to overheating
My thoughts exactly.... hoping the block I find can be done std or maybe as small as 10 or 20 over.
I will know Monday if I have a block to start with.
The old man says he has a scat9000 crank for a 347 and 6 eagle h beam rods 289 length.. 5.115
Says I can have for FREE the pistons are 60 over so would need to buy a set....
Going to look for pricing on 2 rods and a piston set. Balancer and flywheel.
Is that rod length usable with a typical 347 piston?
Joe
I was gonna provide this link the last time you said that......Not the case.....It's a lot of money, but comes complete with the ECU, harness, and trans. it's in the US. ( Well,...It's at least in North America)
This is the top of the line version of this engine,...A turbo Barra, made like 360 hp in factory trim.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-0L-...e-crossflow-motor-Falcon-Aussie-/192314921005
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I talked to him today after doing some looking, he corrected to say 5.4 or 5.3xx rod length..
Pistons for a 5.3xx rod are crazy expensive for my budget. After balance and flywheel balancer I'll be in it what you can get a balanced assembly new for.
Don't know yet still searching.
Yea, well if your 'friend' wasn't such a lugnut he would have remembered there was another engine in a vert sit'n less that 50 feet from where they were stanging 
but nnoooo, he waited till you were already back home 
but nnoooo, he waited till you were already back home Reasonably priced pistons are hard to come by it seems right now, especially since probe stopped producing. I think wiesco's and maybe mahle's are probably your best bet, but it's been a while since I priced any. The last I looked I was trying to price 351 pistons, and there weren't a lot of options.
Joe
Ok so I am going with a 302/306 build combination, that is cast into stone so far. The piston will cost around 300 depending on who I buy them from shooting for a compression ratio close to 9.5
Bearings, I did some research on the subject of bearings and found that they are not all created equal... I am more confused now than I was when I started, for those of you in the know what criteria should I use when picking a bearing for the mains and rods? For now all I know is that a bi metal will last a bit longer and a tri metal will take a bit more abuse but won't get as many miles..... For the sake of argument let's assume I will drive this car 5k miles a year.
Bearings, I did some research on the subject of bearings and found that they are not all created equal... I am more confused now than I was when I started, for those of you in the know what criteria should I use when picking a bearing for the mains and rods? For now all I know is that a bi metal will last a bit longer and a tri metal will take a bit more abuse but won't get as many miles..... For the sake of argument let's assume I will drive this car 5k miles a year.
Now for the fun part...... HELP ME SPEND MY MONEY!!!!!!!
recommendations for a bulletproof 306
i need to pick pistons, bearings [thinking kings hp series], ring package, head gaskets
can i reuse my ARP head bolts or should i buy studs???
Main girdle??
remember this is a street car will see 10-12psi and watermeth.
Thanks for the input!
recommendations for a bulletproof 306
i need to pick pistons, bearings [thinking kings hp series], ring package, head gaskets
can i reuse my ARP head bolts or should i buy studs???
Main girdle??
remember this is a street car will see 10-12psi and watermeth.
Thanks for the input!
I have mixed emotions about main and valley girdles. However dotdotdot if you decide to go that direction, let me know. They're good for holding the parts inside if you split the block.
Here's my single, easily proven, told ya so, suggestion to "help you spend your money".
Do not invest a single dime in a stock block that you intend to exceed it's structural limitations in your design stage. As many used World/A-4/Dart/FMS/Boss blocks as there are out there, there has got to be one of them sitting around bare just waiting on you to come up with a thousand dollars to snatch it up
As much as i agree mike, my current budget will not allow for that.... even if i have to put a larger pulley on the blower so it will make less boost = less power..
My goal for right now is to build a 306 combination that will make somewhere around 450ftlbs and 400hp at the tire, this is within the stock block limitation and will be more than adequate to scare the friggin begisus out of myself and any passengers in the vehicle. Custom cam should be able to give me a rock steady idle great street manners and good power... Heck at 10psi i could probably use the stock cam and make this a reality.
I just dont want to cut any corners this time around, I have been very lucky with my current shortblock using hyper pistons because i tune on the cautious side. I dont need or want block splitting power, i want a well mannered streetcar that has as broad a torque curve as possible.... The ability to burn off the tires at will, and be able to keep up with some of the modern sports cars.
thats not to much to ask is it?
nobody wants to spend my money huh.......i guess i will just have to call manufacturers and get their opinion on what i should buy.... lol ... no biased opinions there.
Not that I don't want to spend your money, it's just you likely will not let me drive it after the money is spent.
I would hit up some of the experts here but prepare yourself, it may get confusing with different opinions though I think most would agree on piston type, you already know what to do there.
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/bearing-need-know-buy-next-set-engine-bearings/
Here is a link to an article that talks about the different bearings and their uses, and yes the King brand is mentioned, hope this helps.
I would hit up some of the experts here but prepare yourself, it may get confusing with different opinions though I think most would agree on piston type, you already know what to do there.
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/bearing-need-know-buy-next-set-engine-bearings/
Here is a link to an article that talks about the different bearings and their uses, and yes the King brand is mentioned, hope this helps.
I wanna help you spend money,but have no experience with blower builds. Most of the rebuilds I’ve done/been involved in where stock rebuilds. Parts house bearings/rings etc. The only Hot Rodish Engine I’ve ever put together was a 30 over 302 with KB pistons. King’s bearings,Stock/Balanced rotating assembly and worked over cast iron heads
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