engine lights codes, please help

ceracer33

New Member
Aug 30, 2005
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on the way to work today my check engine light came on, so i had it checked out and this is what its coming up with.
PO171 bank 1 too lean
PO174 bank 2 too lean
PO602 control module programming error

im guessing its showing lean b/c of maybe a vacuum leak? according to my wideband it is not running lean so im puzzled about this. i do know one of my vacuum lines is a little rough looking and could possibly be leaking so im going to change that for sure.

but what about the last code. why on earth would it be saying i have a control module programming error. im running the sniper software. tune was custom done by a sniper dealer who is also a member of this site. i really dont think there is anything wrong with the tune but maybe it could be? anyone have any ideas?
 
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on the way to work today my check engine light came on, so i had it checked out and this is what its coming up with.
PO171 bank 1 too lean
PO174 bank 2 too lean
PO602 control module programming error

im guessing its showing lean b/c of maybe a vacuum leak? according to my wideband it is not running lean so im puzzled about this. i do know one of my vacuum lines is a little rough looking and could possibly be leaking so im going to change that for sure.

but what about the last code. why on earth would it be saying i have a control module programming error. im running the sniper software. tune was custom done by a sniper dealer who is also a member of this site. i really dont think there is anything wrong with the tune but maybe it could be? anyone have any ideas?


check the PCV hose , and all your vacuum lines ........get some carb cleaner and spray all around the intake while its idling , if it sucks in the RPMS will change ....
 
if you dont find any leaks , email me the tune you are running and I can richen it back up a little at cruise should get the codes to go away , the P0602 just means you have an aftermarket tune on it nothing to that one really , the others are either a vacuum leak or it may need to be richened up slightly , kinda weird though the fuel trims were perfect on that datalog you sent me ....and you sent that video of your wideband and its reading 14.5-14.9 at idle ......I dont recon the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ???? how many miles on the O2s ?
 
gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow. been really busy, but i've noticed my idle is higher than normal now so im pretty sure im gonna have a vacuum leak. the wideband is jumping from 13.6-15.3 at idle now so its all over the place. something is throwing it way off so its gotta be a vacuum leak. i have no idea how many miles are on the o2's. car has 122k on it, i bought it with 85k and have never changed them. not sure they have ever been changed at all. but if the o2's were bad wouldnt i be getting bad gas mileage? im still getting my usual gas mileage so i dont think that is the problem. im betting i have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
i bought some starting fluid and sprayed it all around the engine bay, sprayed it on every vacuum line and where they connected. sprayed around the plenum to intake gasket as well to make sure it was sealed there. doesnt appear to have any leaks whatsoever. i have noticed that sometimes the idle will start to fluctuate. it will drop down low then raise up around 1200ish and then drop back down again repeatedly. while this is going on my wideband is dropping to 13.3ish when the idle is low and it jumps up to around 15.6ish when the idle raises to 1200ish. i unplugged the iac valve to see what happened and it made no difference at all. shouldnt it go dead if it was regulating the idle? it made no change at all. also i got out my fluke meter and checked the tps sensor. i've got 5 volts on the top wire, and i've got 1.0-1.1 volts on the middle wire at idle with the car running. i tried my best to break the phillips head screws loose holding it on so that i could adjust it and try to get it to read 0.9-1.0 while idling but i cant for the life of me get those screws to break loose. whoever put them on must have used some locktite or something bc they will not budge. i even took a hammer and tapped on the screwdriver while i turned to try and shock them loose but that wouldnt work either. im starting to get really aggrivated with this thing. i dont see how the tune could be a problem, there's gotta be something throwing this thing off. im wondering if the iac valve is working at all.
 
i bought some starting fluid and sprayed it all around the engine bay, sprayed it on every vacuum line and where they connected. sprayed around the plenum to intake gasket as well to make sure it was sealed there. doesnt appear to have any leaks whatsoever. i have noticed that sometimes the idle will start to fluctuate. it will drop down low then raise up around 1200ish and then drop back down again repeatedly. while this is going on my wideband is dropping to 13.3ish when the idle is low and it jumps up to around 15.6ish when the idle raises to 1200ish. i unplugged the iac valve to see what happened and it made no difference at all. shouldnt it go dead if it was regulating the idle? it made no change at all. also i got out my fluke meter and checked the tps sensor. i've got 5 volts on the top wire, and i've got 1.0-1.1 volts on the middle wire at idle with the car running. i tried my best to break the phillips head screws loose holding it on so that i could adjust it and try to get it to read 0.9-1.0 while idling but i cant for the life of me get those screws to break loose. whoever put them on must have used some locktite or something bc they will not budge. i even took a hammer and tapped on the screwdriver while i turned to try and shock them loose but that wouldnt work either. im starting to get really aggrivated with this thing. i dont see how the tune could be a problem, there's gotta be something throwing this thing off. im wondering if the iac valve is working at all.

the idle is going to fluctuate and act stupid until you can get that TPS under 1.0 volts you might have to cut the screw heads off and use visegrips to get the screws out , and then go get new screws at Ford for it ......I think the TPS is your main problem , get that fixed and then unhook the battery or clear the Codes and drive it around some and see what happens ....
 
ok i finally got the tps off and the lowest i can turn it and get it to read is between .9 and 1.0 volts at idle running. there isnt enough play in it to make it stay under 1.0 volts constantly. its fluctuates slightly from high 0.9's to low 1.00's. is that low enough? or do i need to try something different like drilling the holes out bigger? im having some serious idle issues now. checked again for vacuum leaks and still cant find one, i cleaned the maf, and changed the iac valve, nothing helped.
 
well i went out on a limb and installed a tune that i created from the sf's software and my idle issue seems to have dissapeared, all the low speed surging is gone as well. what do u think would cause all of it? possible that maybe it was a little too lean at idle with ur tune? the wideband seems to read the same at idle with either tune though so i dont really understand.
 
well i went out on a limb and installed a tune that i created from the sf's software and my idle issue seems to have dissapeared, all the low speed surging is gone as well. what do u think would cause all of it? possible that maybe it was a little too lean at idle with ur tune? the wideband seems to read the same at idle with either tune though so i dont really understand.

it will correct itself to a certain point , if it has to adjust over 25 percent on its own then it will throw a light , I will look back at your tunes but you might get me quicker thru email next time LOL , [email protected] I check it more often than here
 
ok i finally got the tps off and the lowest i can turn it and get it to read is between .9 and 1.0 volts at idle running. there isnt enough play in it to make it stay under 1.0 volts constantly. its fluctuates slightly from high 0.9's to low 1.00's. is that low enough? or do i need to try something different like drilling the holes out bigger? im having some serious idle issues now. checked again for vacuum leaks and still cant find one, i cleaned the maf, and changed the iac valve, nothing helped.

do you have the stock or aftermarket TB on it ? if its aftermarket try backing the idle set screw down a quarter turn
 
its a bbk 75mm tb, i backed the screw out until it no longer touched, then screwed it back in until it touched and went about a 1/4 turn further. with one of my tunes she idles perfect. my guess is i probably had u lean it a little too much at part throttle. car runs good on this tune though so i will probably just leave it for now.
 
its a bbk 75mm tb, i backed the screw out until it no longer touched, then screwed it back in until it touched and went about a 1/4 turn further. with one of my tunes she idles perfect. my guess is i probably had u lean it a little too much at part throttle. car runs good on this tune though so i will probably just leave it for now.

you might wanna enlargen the screw holes for it and get it to stay under 1.0v at all times at idle while its running
 
i had thought about doing that while i was messing with it, but wasnt sure if i should since the holes are lined in metal. ill give it a shop when i get time again to mess with it. work is so crazy right now i barely have time to drive it, much less work on it. i've got some longtubes and a 31 spline diff/rear rebuild i've had for a while now, just cant find the time to install it all. cant wait to get the longtubes and 3:73's in her though lol. i need to take vacation time