Engine missing, need help!

oxman · Sep 13, 2008

Ok, so bout two weeks ago my car starting missing BAD! If i accelerated slowly it was ok, but when i start to put some foot in it, it starts missing. Now, i misses all the time even in idle (actually sounds like I'am camming lol) The check engine light actually blinks at me sometimes! I changed the spark plugs about a year ago so i was leaning more towards a bad coil pack. I went to autozone and had them test it and the report said cyl. 6 is misfiring. I bought a coil pack but not sure which one is Cyl. 6?? ALSO, it said i have a large evap leak?? Not sure what that is or how to go about fixing it?? ANy help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys!!

68stang351 · Sep 13, 2008

Cyl 6 is the second cylinder from the front on the driver's side. I dealt with a miss a while back so what I've done is still fresh on my mind.

To see if it's the coil pack, disconnect the battery to clear the light, and swap #5 and #6 coils. When the CEL comes back on, see if the miss followed the coil over to cylinder 5. If so, it's the coil, if not it's something else.

Next thing I would do after that is to get a volt meter and check to make sure the coil is getting power to it from the connector.

Another thing to do is to get a noid light and see if the injector is getting a signal. You can rent these from Autozone, or sometimes they will even let you borrow it if you do it in the parking lot. Simply unplug the injector connector, plug the noid light into the connector, then turn the engine and see if the noid light flashes. If it flashes, then the injector is getting the signal to fire.

Hopefully this will help you.

BTW, my miss ended up being caused by the ground wire for my injector shorting out. My wiring harness dropped down and was rubbing on my EGR tube. It rubbed through the ground wire for my #3 injector, and was grounding the injector out, completing the circuit and holding the injector open, or opening it at the wrong times.

SeriousStang8_ · Sep 13, 2008

where do u live? if ur on long island theres a shop in Deer Park called mustang magic, they do alot of cars but specialize in mustangs, their # 631-2543430 even if u dont live close u should give them a call ask to talk to Joe he could tell explain to u wat a evap leak is, n def ask him a price on repair to get an idea on a repair, they usually have good prices

COramprat · Sep 13, 2008

Large Evap leak is sometimes a bad gas cap.

If you have an ohm meter you can check the old coil. Details are posted in another thread here. Just search "coil pack" and it should come up.

oxman · Sep 13, 2008

problem fixed! plug canal was full of antifreee caused from what i believe to be a leaky gasket from radiator hose piece. Thanks for the help guys!!

2000GTdriver · Sep 13, 2008

Evaporative Emissions Contol System (EECS) is a charcoal filled canister attached to the fuel tank and intake by hoses and a canister purge valve. Poor idle, stalling, and poor driveability can be caused by an inoperative purge valve, damaged canister, split or cracked hoses or mis-connected hoses.One of these hoses popped off its conection somehow on my car and caused all of the above symptoms.Find two hoses under the hood attached to the air intake and follow them to the other end, I think one goes to the IAC and the other to the canister. Check for cracks or loose conections on hoses and canister, hope this helps you!

oxman · Sep 13, 2008

2000GTdriver said:
Evaporative Emissions Contol System (EECS) is a charcoal filled canister attached to the fuel tank and intake by hoses and a canister purge valve. Poor idle, stalling, and poor driveability can be caused by an inoperative purge valve, damaged canister, split or cracked hoses or mis-connected hoses.One of these hoses popped off its conection somehow on my car and caused all of the above symptoms.Find two hoses under the hood attached to the air intake and follow them to the other end, I think one goes to the IAC and the other to the canister. Check for cracks or loose conections on hoses and canister, hope this helps you!

hmm, 10-4 on that I'l try that. Something i didn't mention maybe this is related don't know. Last summer i was going down the highway and all of a sudden the air quit blowing through the vents and will only blow through the defroster vents no matter the setting? It blows cold air just can't get it to blow through the vents. any ideas? thanks!

poindexternasty · Sep 14, 2008

If you have an EVAP leak check the fuel tank gasket where the filler neck meets the tank.... mine was almost completely rotted-through after only 5 years.

Also, check the purge valve in the passenger-front fender well. Cost of replacement from rockauto.com, $32 and 15 minutes of my time.

Cost at a dealer, $400 quoted. Always do your own work and research the problem thoroughly, I love helping people as they have helped me on this forum by saving me LITERALLY hundreds of dollars. From noisy differentials that just needed some friction modifier to leaking A/C lines to bad EVAP systems.... the Internet is a wonderful place.

Peace!

Pearl02 · Sep 14, 2008

oxman said:
hmm, 10-4 on that I'l try that. Something i didn't mention maybe this is related don't know. Last summer i was going down the highway and all of a sudden the air quit blowing through the vents and will only blow through the defroster vents no matter the setting? It blows cold air just can't get it to blow through the vents. any ideas? thanks!

Sounds like there's something going on with your blend door. The blend door directs flow of air depending on your setting. Check all vacuum connection of the HVAC system. You need to find a good write up about the HVAC systems on Mustangs. I beleive the vacuum lines are very thin and look more like plastic lines. Also, the cable that controls the door my have come off. Pearl02.

Engine missing, need help!

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...I can take it. I think.

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