engine options

[2000xp8]

It is just looking at the fact that the cam has to be replaced. In essence you would be stripping this right down to the block, pistons, and crank. He is looking for a cost effective quick type solution. If you get down to this level, you might as well rebuild the one you have.

At that point, all you would need to change for a full rebuild (of the bottom) is to change the frost plugs, bearings and rings. Since you are that close you might as well do it right.

If ID89GT is right about the block being stronger, then I can understand. I would just hate to go thru the amount of work you are talking about with an explorer short block and not finish it out right.

If you grab a mustang short block, the cam is correct, as is everything else that is there, so just bolt everything up and go. Much faster. That is my logic.

One thing I forgot is that he was talking about changing the cam, so if he plans that anyway, it may be a good option. I just caught that in reviewing the posts below. My opinion, changing the cam takes this out of the cost effective route though by adding an additional $300 or so for the cost of the bigger cam and then you will have to replace the cam bearings anyway. At this point you should change the timing chain and gears also. Now you are so close to having to buy a rebuild kit regardless.

Swapping in an explorer engine is simple and cheap.
Changing out the cam can be done without taking the heads off, essentially for the cost of the cam. And E cams can be had for a $100, so that's a no brainer.


The explorer engine is low budget and simple.
Change the cam, valve springs and swap over your accessories and get gt40p ford racing headers, couple other odds and ends and drive off into the sunset with about 265rwhp for less than a grand.

Your theory on getting so deep in the engine would apply to any engine you installed, so basically if you change the cam in your eyes you should rebuild the whole engine?
For the record, machine shop costs in my area are $1200 that's with NO parts. That's more for the shortblock than the entire explorer engine.

The explorer block isn't any stronger, for all intensive purposes it's the same as a 5.0 mustang. Internals are irrelevant because no matter which 5.0 engine you have, the block is only reliable to 450rwhp.

Flashback, yes get a new ford racing timing chain set, should only be $75 or so.

While i would never go out of my way to put gt40p's on my engine, if i was on a low budget and my engine was shot, i would certainly get an explorer engine, swap the cam and drive it.
Stock explorer engines are better than mustang engines, and cost only a few bucks more.

 

[94stangfan]

Swapping in an explorer engine is simple and cheap.
Changing out the cam can be done without taking the heads off, essentially for the cost of the cam. And E cams can be had for a $100, so that's a no brainer.


The explorer engine is low budget and simple.
Change the cam, valve springs and swap over your accessories and get gt40p ford racing headers, couple other odds and ends and drive off into the sunset with about 265rwhp for less than a grand.

Your theory on getting so deep in the engine would apply to any engine you installed, so basically if you change the cam in your eyes you should rebuild the whole engine?
For the record, machine shop costs in my area are $1200 that's with NO parts. That's more for the shortblock than the entire explorer engine.

The explorer block isn't any stronger, for all intensive purposes it's the same as a 5.0 mustang. Internals are irrelevant because no matter which 5.0 engine you have, the block is only reliable to 450rwhp.

Flashback, yes get a new ford racing timing chain set, should only be $75 or so.

While i would never go out of my way to put gt40p's on my engine, if i was on a low budget and my engine was shot, i would certainly get an explorer engine, swap the cam and drive it.
Stock explorer engines are better than mustang engines, and cost only a few bucks more.

I agree if you have a complete engine go for the explorer. On a tight budget, go for the 96-Early97 engine so you don't have to buy new headers.

My theory is only if you are buying a short block. You are missing the heads and the intake, and that is the benefit you are gaining with the Explorer engine. So if you then have to take out the cam as well, what is left? So that is whay I ask, what is the point. You are so close you might as well finish it off.

I would love to know where to get a $100 cam. (I am being serious here) PM me with a link please.

Can someone please explain why a short block explorer is better than a short block Mustang engine? Obviously you have to change the cam anyway so you are down to just the block, pistons, and crank. What is superior about them?

 

[stykthyn]

the explorer short block likely hasnt been beaten on nearly as hard as a mustang engine. The other factor is that most explorer short blocks are likely well under 100k miles. How many mustang short blocks have low mileage and dont require a re-ring or new bearings? I agree that having to swap a cam is a pita, but you can get a decent cam for well under 200 dollars brand new, the TFS1 is 169.00 for example. We are talking about budget engines. Dollars and cents wise there is no reason not to go for an explorer short block over a mustang block. You can start with the hyper piston debate, but for an N/A street car they will likely outlast many other parts on the car.

 

[2000xp8]

I agree if you have a complete engine go for the explorer. On a tight budget, go for the 96-Early97 engine so you don't have to buy new headers.

My theory is only if you are buying a short block. You are missing the heads and the intake, and that is the benefit you are gaining with the Explorer engine. So if you then have to take out the cam as well, what is left? So that is whay I ask, what is the point. You are so close you might as well finish it off.

I would love to know where to get a $100 cam. (I am being serious here) PM me with a link please.

Can someone please explain why a short block explorer is better than a short block Mustang engine? Obviously you have to change the cam anyway so you are down to just the block, pistons, and crank. What is superior about them?

Nothing is superior about the explorer shortblock, other than the fact that is comes out of an automatic explorer. The explorer shift pattern rarely even lets you past 4500rpm.
5.0 mustangs are beat to death and explorers aren't.
Just look around for the cam, ford e cams and tfs stage 1 cams trade on the open market for less than $100 all the time. There's an e cam on ebay staring bid $100, BIN $150, no bids, and probably will only get a couple.

Not quite sure you understand how much of an undertaking rebuilding an entire engine is. It's expensive and time consuming.
Is is best if you want a 347? Of course, but that's going to set you back 2 grand when you are done (at least).

If you need an engine and don't have 1000's to spend the explorer is the way to go.
I've laid out about a $1000 plan, what you are suggesting is going to cost more and get you less.

BTW, i'll bet the factory built explorer shortblock out lives the rebuild.
Rarely is an engine as good the second time around.

Simple math tells you the 96 explorers with the gt40 iron heads are older, old means more miles usually.
So IMO, it's worth the extra couple hundred for the headers, besides, most of these cars will land up with headers at some point anyway.

 

[flashback87]

all you guys rock!!! really sweet info here

i'm definetly leaning for the explorer engine. as mentioned above it just seems like the best bang for the buck. especially since i am not really looking for more horses and my car is just a weekend cruiser/hobby.

i think i am going go with a newer explorer engine and just strap on some new headers. like i said before i am all about the sound(a lot of you will probably disagree with my motivation here) and that is why i want to throw a nice cam in too

it looked like from 94stangfans original explorer threat the newest engine i could look for is a 2001. I know i shoule be looking for a low mile motor but what do you guys think is the highest mileage i could get and still have a quality motor with these?

again, thanks a lot for all the advice.

 

[stykthyn]

Sound will stay reasonably the same according to which cam you use. You shouldn't have a problem finding a motor under 100k miles.