Engine quit, instrument panel stayed on, noise from driver's side fire wall

Takt

Member
Jul 14, 2004
48
0
6
Madison, WI
What the hell is it :shrug:

I was backing my 66 out of the garage, and the engine stopped. I pulled the key out and the aftermarket tach and instrument panel lights stayed on. There was also a noise that appeared to be coming from the drivers side firewall. The noise happened every 3 seconds or so, and when it did, the dome lights dimmed. The noise is hard to describe, almost a hesitation noise. Not a hiss or anything. Obviously had to be electrical.

The tach and panel were "spayed" into the existing fuse box, so I pulled these out. Noise continued. I tried to start the car, it would turn over, but would not start. I unhooked the battery and put the car away (I was a little ticked off, so I let it sit for awhile).

Yesterday, I connected the battery (tach and panel were not connected), and the car started right up. I didn't have the noise, and everything seemed fine.

I'm thinking it is the ignition switch (I pulled out the tumbler, but can't get the bezel off. I am going to order the bezel tool soon). Could it have anything to do with the tach and panel being spayed into the fuse? Should I splice it into an existing wire?

Any thoughts? Thank you for your time.
 
I ran a wire from the tach to a keyed fuse in the box. Same with my triple guages. Ain't much on that side, except the VR, maybe you get a new model for it, and see what happens. I don't really know tho, Sorry. :(
 
On a 66 you don't need a tool to nemove the bezel. You need to take the plug off the back (including the terminal on the thread at the rear) and then the ignition switch body and bezel fit together with a bayonet (like a brake light lamp). Press in the switch body from the rear and turn it, holding the bezel still.

As for the noise, it sounds like you're talking about arcing. This is very bad, as you could be on your way to a nasty fire if you don't get it sorted. There are two disconnects on the driver's side firewall check those. If you can get the car in the dark and try to replicate the fault whilst looking under the hood at the firewall, and under the dash at the same area, you should see a blue light coming from the arc.

If that doesn't work, you need to strip back until you find it. Or carry a fire extinguisher...
 
Thank you for the replies -- and now I'm more concerned, which is a good thing. I wasn't going to worry much about it, but after reading the comments above, that is the wrong way to look at it. Time to do more investigative work.

Thanks!