engine refreshening help

Well, I got the crank back... Actually I just exchanged it for one that was already ground .01/.01. All I really need to do is order some rings and I'll be ready to start putting it back together. Santa was especially nice to me this year, so I'm looking at getting some heads at the same time.

As discussed in a previous thread, the engine is going to be for a summer time daily driver, so the rpm will max out around 6300 rpm (factory EEC IV rev limiter), and I may eventually add a supercharger.

Which heads do you guys recommend? I was looking at the tfs 170s with the 61cc chambers or the RHS aluminum 180s with the 64cc chambers. Any other ideas or suggestions? $1300 is probably the most I'd want to spend.
 
I think I've decided on the trick flow 170s. I should be able to use a decent cam without having to notch the stock 5.0 pistons.

does anyone know the difference between these two part numbers?
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400004 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400010 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® Track Heat® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com

they are both 61cc, and both have dual valve springs good to 0.600" lift
 
I think I've decided on the trick flow 170s. I should be able to use a decent cam without having to notch the stock 5.0 pistons.

does anyone know the difference between these two part numbers?
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400004 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400010 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® Track Heat® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com

they are both 61cc, and both have dual valve springs good to 0.600" lift

Hi
You might want to check with TFS directly. I'm running the -51400004 version which is considered a street/race head approved for carb use. These heads with my intake, billet custom cam, makes 392 RWHP @ 6100.
Hmmmm?
 
I sent them an email, but looking through their website, it seems the differences are:

the 004s have 3/8" rocker studs and the 010s have 7/16 studs.

the 004s have 7 degree locks and the 010s have 10 degree locks.

the 004s are CARB compliant and have a "heat crossover" while the 010s don't.
 
I sent them an email, but looking through their website, it seems the differences are:

the 004s have 3/8" rocker studs and the 010s have 7/16 studs.

the 004s have 7 degree locks and the 010s have 10 degree locks.

the 004s are CARB compliant and have a "heat crossover" while the 010s don't.


I was interested, as well as I have the 04s. But, I had them upgraded with with 10 deg locks and the larger studs. The 04s are nice also, as you have the option of enabling or blanking the cross-over.
It's always best to contact the mfg. vs. the vendor for the complete story.
I'm making some great power with my head and cam combo.
Thanks for sharing your findings.
 
from trick flow:
"There is no performance advantage from on to the other. The 51400010 just does not have the smog ports and it comes with the bigger rocker studs."

Both are the same price at summit. I'm not going to be using a smog pump and my '65 will never see emissions. Which ones do you think I should get? It seems to me that the only reason to go with the 004s would be resale.
 
Well I finally got some parts together and started on the engine. So far everything has gone well, except for my valve covers.

Exactly how important are the baffles? I really like the covers i have but the baffles are making contact with the studs. The valve covers were advertised as being "tall" but they sure aren't fitting.

50011.webp

50014.webp


the side with the baffle is about 3/8" off of the head.
 
Well I finally got some parts together and started on the engine. So far everything has gone well, except for my valve covers.

Exactly how important are the baffles? I really like the covers i have but the baffles are making contact with the studs. The valve covers were advertised as being "tall" but they sure aren't fitting.

50011.webp

50014.webp


the side with the baffle is about 3/8" off of the head.

Hi,
That's some nice looking junk you got going there. I too, had baffle conflicts. So, I removed them a when I put my junk together (2009). I did grind down any casting bosses that were present on the underside as well, just to clean it all up.
I run screw-type breathers (one with a built-in PCV) with dbl gaskets and have not one leak from these V/Cs. (cast Mustang powered by Ford)
As you can see I'm running CompGold rockers, with studs on TW heads, as well.
Unless there are some other dimensional differences, you should be good.
Good Luck!
 
Thanks.

I have the baffles cut out now, and the covers now fit on the engine. I'm going to try a set of grommets with built in baffles and see how they work. Summit has their own for $1.50 each. If that doesn't work I might build my own low profile baffles.
 
Thanks.

I have the baffles cut out now, and the covers now fit on the engine. I'm going to try a set of grommets with built in baffles and see how they work. Summit has their own for $1.50 each. If that doesn't work I might build my own low profile baffles.

Hi,
I'm not familiar with "grommets with built in baffles"? What's this? I guess, I need a to see what you're describing. Have a Summit P/N handy?
 
It might, but for $1.50 I'll give it a try. It
doesn't say how deep they are.

I understand, when I look at my case the # 6 exh rocker is just to the right of the opening. This being the case your grommets may work fine. But, as I mentioned, I already have the twist-on caps in place and know they work well. I think those grommets should work well for you, as well.
Good luck bud!