Engine Removal

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
my motor is comin out pretty soon and wanted to know whats the easiest way to do it. i'll have all the stands,jacks, hoist. just wanted some ideas and tips for a successful removal.

what has to be done with the tranny?
 
ok here is the deal engine removeal is the easy part but getting that sucker back in is the hard part. remmeber to put all you bolts in ziplock bags and lable them cuz you will get confused. make sure you unbolt the tranny off the motor(I think 4 bolts on 289) there is no point in takeing out the tranny if your no going to change it just losein the two bolts so it may move up or down to help removeal. I have done this 4 to 5 times with 4 to 5 cars lable everything it sucks when you dont have one part that you need.
remove hood for cleance, drian radiator water, drian engine oil remove all wireing connected to engine from outside the engine, unbolt engine from motor mounts, unbolt tranny from engine, and pull engine out. thats it...................I might have for got some stuff so someone plz add!
 
lol just to be a wise ass-->> EXHAUST AND FUEL LINES!. Lol. you also might wanna check to see if your starter might be in the way of hitting the tranny or something else on the way out.
 
Taking several pictures before hand will help during reassembly. Pay particular attention to photoing the carb linkage, any brackets, and places where wires attach.

Label all wires with masking tape to tell you where they go later. Alternatively, make a drawing that shows where each wire came from and where it gets attached.

As mentioned above, bagging and labeling is well worth the time spent.

Screwing with the exhaust is often the worst part of removal and reassembly.
 
I surprised you haven't already done this before! Here are a couple of other points.

-Take the rad out. Nobody has mentioned it, but there just isn't enough room to safely sneak by without damageing it.
-Support the tranny in front of the pan with a stand or pile of wood.
-Unbolt the headers and leave them in the car, tie them back with bungees.
-Remove the export brace or two piece braces
-Disconnect P/S hoses alternator wires, tranny kickdown and all that other crap that gets in the way.
-It's up to you if you want to remove the torque converter nuts now and leave it engaged on the tranny or remove from the flex plate after. I find it easier to remove when it is in the car rather than hanging from a hoist on a chain. It has to be removed before you can bolt the engine to the stand or reinstall anyway. Make sure to FULLY re-engage the T/C on the tranny input shaft prior to reinstalling the engine. Rotate it several times while pushing it in untill it indexes a couple of times. Don't forget to line up the drain plus with the hole in the flex plate.

Have fun!
 
It looks like everyone has covered the basics. Getting the torque converter undone is fairly easy just need to rotate the engine around to get to all of them. I believe there is four. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH IT, if you angle it and pull on it at awkward angles it can damage it, and also make one hell of a mess for you. Once you got the bellhousing unbolted it will take a little prying and wiggleing till it snaps loose. Take lots of pictures if this is your first time. I remember where they all go so I never had a problem but it is good practice to mark the wires. Your radiator will need to come out and the hood needs to come off. I don't know if the alternator needs to come off I know the harness does. Powersteering needs to be unhooked, and finally the motor mounts a then you will be good to go. It is a fairly easy process if you do it properly. First time takes a little longer, but you will get the hang of it fast. The headers are the worst part, and draining the rad. (I HATE IT!!! Makes a huge mess!!)
 
Once you are ready to remove the engine, take it easy separating the flywheel from the torque converter. You want to move the engine forward to clear the torque converter studs. If the converter comes off with the motor, it will dump ATF all over the place. Worse yet, you could cause damage to the transmission input shaft as you jack up the engine if it’s hung up.

I pulled my first engine last winter. As stated above, take the time to bag and tag EVERTHING as you take it off. My engine was out for three months during the rebuild and if not for bagging and tagging, I would still be working on putting it back in.

Also, on my big block, I dropped the cross member. That really helped.

Tim
 
This brings up a good point as I pulled the engine in the little ladies Coupe this past weekend - Mrs. Historic Mustang.

When I put the new one in how much tranny fluid do I dump into the torque converter or will the normal start up procedure re-fill the torque converter?

As mentioned above, when it came out the damn tranny fluid went all over the garage floor (yep, the floor is sealed so a gallon of Windex and the floor was clean). Just wondering how much should be put in the converter when it goes back on the tranny?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
The little ladies power plant coming out. Note the tranny fluid all over the floor. You need to put down the grey stuff in your shop. A little Windex and the floor was clean!!!!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

motorpull7hq.webp
 

Attachments

  • motorpull7hq.webp
    motorpull7hq.webp
    2.8 KB · Views: 92