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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Engine Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cobain03
  • Start date Start date Nov 21, 2005
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Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
Nov 21, 2005
#1
  • Nov 21, 2005
  • #1
my motor is comin out pretty soon and wanted to know whats the easiest way to do it. i'll have all the stands,jacks, hoist. just wanted some ideas and tips for a successful removal.

what has to be done with the tranny?
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
401
0
0
San Jose CA
Nov 22, 2005
#2
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #2
ok here is the deal engine removeal is the easy part but getting that sucker back in is the hard part. remmeber to put all you bolts in ziplock bags and lable them cuz you will get confused. make sure you unbolt the tranny off the motor(I think 4 bolts on 289) there is no point in takeing out the tranny if your no going to change it just losein the two bolts so it may move up or down to help removeal. I have done this 4 to 5 times with 4 to 5 cars lable everything it sucks when you dont have one part that you need.
remove hood for cleance, drian radiator water, drian engine oil remove all wireing connected to engine from outside the engine, unbolt engine from motor mounts, unbolt tranny from engine, and pull engine out. thats it...................I might have for got some stuff so someone plz add!
 

wild70stang

New Member
Nov 11, 2005
317
0
0
Nov 22, 2005
#3
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #3
lol just to be a wise ass-->> EXHAUST AND FUEL LINES!. Lol. you also might wanna check to see if your starter might be in the way of hitting the tranny or something else on the way out.
 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
401
0
0
San Jose CA
Nov 22, 2005
#4
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #4
ohh yea **** i forgot about those, Thanks wild70stang
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Nov 22, 2005
#5
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #5
Taking several pictures before hand will help during reassembly. Pay particular attention to photoing the carb linkage, any brackets, and places where wires attach.

Label all wires with masking tape to tell you where they go later. Alternatively, make a drawing that shows where each wire came from and where it gets attached.

As mentioned above, bagging and labeling is well worth the time spent.

Screwing with the exhaust is often the worst part of removal and reassembly.
 

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
Nov 22, 2005
#6
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #6
i forgot about the headers. thats gonna be a pain.

(search for the threads if you dont know the troubles. got a couple of pages full!)
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Nov 22, 2005
#7
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #7
I surprised you haven't already done this before! Here are a couple of other points.

-Take the rad out. Nobody has mentioned it, but there just isn't enough room to safely sneak by without damageing it.
-Support the tranny in front of the pan with a stand or pile of wood.
-Unbolt the headers and leave them in the car, tie them back with bungees.
-Remove the export brace or two piece braces
-Disconnect P/S hoses alternator wires, tranny kickdown and all that other crap that gets in the way.
-It's up to you if you want to remove the torque converter nuts now and leave it engaged on the tranny or remove from the flex plate after. I find it easier to remove when it is in the car rather than hanging from a hoist on a chain. It has to be removed before you can bolt the engine to the stand or reinstall anyway. Make sure to FULLY re-engage the T/C on the tranny input shaft prior to reinstalling the engine. Rotate it several times while pushing it in untill it indexes a couple of times. Don't forget to line up the drain plus with the hole in the flex plate.

Have fun!
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
0
37
Medina,Tennessee
Nov 22, 2005
#8
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #8
I like to use a hoist plate bolted to the intake manifold to actually remove the engine. If you are limited to ceiling height like I am it eliminates the extra chain. I also remove the hood.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 22, 2005
#9
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #9
It looks like everyone has covered the basics. Getting the torque converter undone is fairly easy just need to rotate the engine around to get to all of them. I believe there is four. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH IT, if you angle it and pull on it at awkward angles it can damage it, and also make one hell of a mess for you. Once you got the bellhousing unbolted it will take a little prying and wiggleing till it snaps loose. Take lots of pictures if this is your first time. I remember where they all go so I never had a problem but it is good practice to mark the wires. Your radiator will need to come out and the hood needs to come off. I don't know if the alternator needs to come off I know the harness does. Powersteering needs to be unhooked, and finally the motor mounts a then you will be good to go. It is a fairly easy process if you do it properly. First time takes a little longer, but you will get the hang of it fast. The headers are the worst part, and draining the rad. (I HATE IT!!! Makes a huge mess!!)
 

Timmy

Founding Member
May 17, 2002
315
0
0
Conway, Arkansas
Nov 22, 2005
#10
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #10
Once you are ready to remove the engine, take it easy separating the flywheel from the torque converter. You want to move the engine forward to clear the torque converter studs. If the converter comes off with the motor, it will dump ATF all over the place. Worse yet, you could cause damage to the transmission input shaft as you jack up the engine if it’s hung up.

I pulled my first engine last winter. As stated above, take the time to bag and tag EVERTHING as you take it off. My engine was out for three months during the rebuild and if not for bagging and tagging, I would still be working on putting it back in.

Also, on my big block, I dropped the cross member. That really helped.

Tim
 

65fastback2+2

New Member
Aug 4, 2003
1,229
0
0
Louisville, KY
Nov 22, 2005
#11
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #11
give me a call or send me an AIM message hehe
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Nov 22, 2005
#12
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #12
This brings up a good point as I pulled the engine in the little ladies Coupe this past weekend - Mrs. Historic Mustang.

When I put the new one in how much tranny fluid do I dump into the torque converter or will the normal start up procedure re-fill the torque converter?

As mentioned above, when it came out the damn tranny fluid went all over the garage floor (yep, the floor is sealed so a gallon of Windex and the floor was clean). Just wondering how much should be put in the converter when it goes back on the tranny?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
Nov 22, 2005
#13
  • Nov 22, 2005
  • #13
wow ole' Historic askin a question lol.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Nov 23, 2005
#14
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #14
Cobain03 said:
wow ole' Historic askin a question lol.
Click to expand...

You got the answer?

No question that I have problems with the trannys that shift by themselves and electrical issues in these early ladies.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

Tubo(2-bo)

Member
Mar 25, 2004
279
0
16
Ft Walton Beach FL.
Nov 23, 2005
#15
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #15
Add 1-2 qts to torque converter, prior to installation. After engine is running add approriate trans fluid to tranny as necessary.
 

2nd Mustang

Founding Member
Feb 24, 2002
2,488
0
46
Southern California
Nov 23, 2005
#16
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #16
Disconnect/remove battery from engine compartment if it is in original location. Lots of rags, something to plug fuel line and a helper who isn't afraid to get dirty. Have fun.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Nov 23, 2005
#17
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #17
Tubo3 said:
Add 1-2 qts to torque converter, prior to installation. After engine is running add approriate trans fluid to tranny as necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!!!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Nov 24, 2005
#18
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #18
The little ladies power plant coming out. Note the tranny fluid all over the floor. You need to put down the grey stuff in your shop. A little Windex and the floor was clean!!!!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 24, 2005
#19
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #19
Holy crap historic did you angle that engine awkwardly with the tranny, that torque converter bled a lot. I hope you didn't damage the input shaft. I did not get a drop on the ground when I pulled mine out.
 

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
0
36
Lexington, Ky
Nov 24, 2005
#20
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #20
Q: do you drain the tranny fluid as well?
 
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